Second floor on the old house. How to add a second floor to a brick house? Video: example of calculating a mid-flight staircase

One of the advantages of having a private house is the ability to expand the area and improve living conditions. Agree, it is impossible to build a second floor in an apartment, but the same procedure is quite feasible even in an old house, if you know all the nuances and technology. The work is carried out with your own hands, without the use of special equipment and complex mechanisms.

Risk assessment

A preliminary assessment by experts will help determine whether a wooden house is ready for additional loads.
The examination will show the technical condition of the foundation, floors, and wall panels.
The conclusion will determine the need and method of strengthening the entire structure.

Experienced experts always give practical advice on the savings and feasibility of building a second floor on an old house.

Construction technologies

In order to build a second floor above a used old house with your own hands, it is permissible to use several technologies:

Masonry;
Application of reinforced concrete structures;
Lumber (timber);
Panel or frame-panel structures;
Prefabricated structures.

The use of heavy piece materials such as brick or stone requires strengthening of the foundation and wall panels. It is also possible to use unique “piles” located around the perimeter of the entire area of the house; in this case, the second floor is erected without resting on the main walls. The construction of an additional floor in wooden houses is allowed from dry timber, but you will have to wait a year before starting the final finishing.

Advice! Strengthening wall panels and the load-bearing foundation is a very expensive job, so if there is no finance, it is easier to complete the upper floor from lightweight panels or prefabricated structures.

Strengthening old walls

Old wall panels remain stable until overloaded by new structures. And if permission is received from the experts, you can safely build an attic or begin construction of the second floor.

Brick walls can be strengthened as follows:

Square metal posts of 100*100 mm are mounted on the foundation and connected to an armored belt. The installation step is 2 meters around the perimeter of all walls.
Metal reinforcement with a cross-section of 12-14 mm in increments of 2 meters is immersed in grooves hollowed out in the walls at the level of the lower border of the window openings.

Wooden houses only require strengthening the foundation, since the walls themselves cannot be significantly strengthened. In order for the foundation to withstand new loads, you need to do the following:

Replace one side of the support or replace the supports completely. To do this, the house is cleared of all objects, doors and windows are dismantled and the structure is raised with a hydraulic jack. After which a new foundation is poured, on which the entire building will rest.
Armobelt. A monolithic belt of reinforced concrete tape is poured along the entire perimeter of the building. This tape, as shown in the photo, is placed in a trench dug along the old supporting base to a depth of 0.8 m, 0.5 m wider than the old base. Clean the old foundation, treat it with a primer, drive horizontal pins into the foundation in several rows and you can weld this structure to the reinforcement. Next, a metal mesh is laid (on top of the reinforcement) and filled with concrete.

Important! Sometimes, to strengthen the base, it is enough to strengthen only the corner nodes. For example, if the second floor is planned to be completed with light frame structures. The corners dug with a diameter of 1 meter are equipped with a welded reinforcement grid, which is welded to the metal rods of the old foundation and then the whole thing is filled with concrete.

In addition, in order to relieve load-bearing and wall elements, an additional external/internal frame is erected. This system allows you to build a superstructure without support; in fact, the structure consists of two houses connected by communications.

Important! Frame systems are installed around the entire perimeter of the house, regardless of the external or internal type.

Second floor: stages of work

An old house is not always conducive to experimentation, so most often lightweight frame or panel structures are used to expand the usable area. How to build a second floor from panels with your own hands:

Dismantling the roof goes like this: remove the roof, dismantle the rafters and remove the beams;
Raise the panels to the top, which may require the help of another pair of hands;
Mount the end elements and fasten them together using longitudinal beams. For strength, it’s a good idea to connect all structures with vertical beams, as shown in the video;
Equip the longitudinal beams with a rafter system, and where the windows will be located, secure the vertical beam elements;
The end walls are sheathed using sealant, chipboards and thermal insulation is required;
The sheathing is mounted on the roof frame and the roof “pie” is laid.

The last stage of work is the arrangement of the floor, installation of windows, finishing of wall panels and ceiling. To see how the construction process goes with your own hands, look at photos and videos from professionals who will help resolve all issues.

To complete the construction of your house, you will have to make a lot of preliminary calculations. In particular, instead of a second floor, it can be an extension, which will be no worse, but will not have to strengthen the foundation. By the way, if an attached outbuilding is planned, then it can immediately be made from light frame structures with a landscaped attic or second floor. And don't forget the stairs! If this is a full second floor, then the first floor should have a staircase coming from the living room or hallway, but you can climb to the attic both from the corridor and from the terrace.

Important! In the case of arranging an attic, it is necessary to install an armored belt both in the upper part of the first floor and in the attic. The lower armored belt rests on mounted columns connected to the frame of the wall panels, the upper (attic) is supported by rafters supported on the mauerlat.

Building an attic with your own hands is not at all difficult, you just need to check the strength of the old masonry and select a material equal to the width of the wall masonry of the lower floor. The wall panel of the under-roof space must be at least 80-130 cm high so that the space is convenient and comfortable for permanent residence.

Vasilyuk Bogdan: Hello, I have the following question for you. I live in a one-story private house, the house is in good condition, but it is approximately 100 years old. The house was originally made of wood, but is now lined with brick. Repeatedly, repairs were made in the house, rooms were rebuilt, etc.

Now I am planning to change the floors in the room, fill it with concrete, insulate it, and lay laminate flooring. But for the future we are planning to build a second floor, but there are concerns about the foundation, will it hold up as old, is it necessary to check it additionally? I heard that you need to do special stretching in order to evenly distribute the weight. Tell me what you need to pay special attention to so that an irreparable outcome does not occur in the future?

It is imperative to make a calculation - will the foundation withstand the load, will it tilt, shrink, or crack. It is necessary to assess the depth of the support of the house and determine what the bearing capacity of the base under the foundation is. You should also estimate the dimensions of the foundation in order to then calculate its supporting area.

Knowing these data, you can determine what maximum load the house support can bear. Then the mass of the first floor should be subtracted from this value. To calculate it, you need to calculate the volume of materials used in construction - brick, wood, and then, having found out the density of various materials in reference books, calculate their weight.

As a result, you will find out how much additional mass you can load the support with. A similar calculation must be made for the walls. At the same time, you should not seriously rely on the wooden part; it is better to rely on the brick. But if the thickness is only half a brick, then installing even a wooden superstructure will be risky. And the second floor made of stone should be planned only if the walls below are one and a half to two bricks thick.

To distribute the load evenly, you can use an armored belt - a concrete belt with a powerful reinforcement frame. It will reduce the risk of cracks forming in the walls and foundation.

If the strength of the foundation and walls, according to calculations, is not enough, then they can be increased - increase the width of the foundation strip, lay concrete bulls under it, increase the depth. Walls can be strengthened with external columns. You can erect separate supports for the second floor, only in this case difficulties will arise when connecting the old and new buildings, since the new one will shrink for some time.

Since you are planning to replace the floors, this is an excellent opportunity to inspect the condition of the foundation and take measurements in order to then calculate its load-bearing capacity.

One of the significant advantages of a private house is the ability to expand the living space. You can build an extension near the house or add a second floor. In the article we will focus on the key points of planning and construction of an additional floor on a finished building. When starting to build a new house, the second floor can be immediately included in the construction project.

Full second floor or attic

The upper part of a residential building can be designed in different ways - it can be a full floor or an attic. The choice in favor of one or another option must be made based on the following parameters.

Second floor extension: risk assessment

A final decision on the construction of the second floor of the house should be made only after a technical inspection of the building. You can order an examination from a specialized organization that has the appropriate license and certificates to conduct activities.

An engineering survey will determine:

technical condition of the foundation, walls and attic floors;
availability of the necessary reserve of rigidity and strength;
way to strengthen the structure.

As a result of the examination, the company will provide the customer with the following documents:

inspection reports and technical conclusion;
technical condition passport;
design verification calculations;
recommendations for the operation of the building and elimination of defects;
recommendations for reconstruction.

An experienced expert will calculate economic feasibility add-ons and give practical recommendations on how to build the second floor of a house

Second floor construction technologies

To build the second floor of a private house, several technologies are used:

masonry;
use of reinforced concrete structures (polystyrene concrete);
wood laying;
frame-panel technology;
prefabricated structures.

The use of brick and reinforced concrete is usually possible after strengthening the walls and foundation or on separate “piles” that are located around the perimeter of the entire house. In wooden houses, the second floor is made of timber, but the final finishing can be done no earlier than in a year.

Strengthening a structure is quite labor-intensive and costly work. If there are no financial opportunities and time, then the superstructure can be made from lightweight frame panels or a prefabricated structure.

Advantages of frame technology:

light weight;
low cost of materials;
fire safety;
ability to carry out work in any weather conditions.

Ready-made prefabricated structures have appeared on the construction market, which consist of individual elements and are assembled into a single structure at the construction site. They are made from various materials, the most common being wooden trusses and frames; the joining of elements occurs through a keyed connection.

The most practical and easy-to-assemble glued structures of the bent type, fastened in a hinged way. However, due to their high cost, they are rarely used in domestic construction.

Frame and truss structures made of metal have proven themselves well in mass construction. They are reliable and affordable, their only drawback is the difficulty of lifting the parts to the top. Often it is necessary to use heavy construction equipment.

Ways to strengthen the foundation and walls of a house

In order for a new building to be safe, strong and durable, it may be necessary to strengthen the foundation and walls. Let's consider the main ways to strengthen the structure.

At strengthening the foundation of a wooden house Usually one side of the support is replaced, and if necessary, a complete replacement is carried out. Two strong men can strengthen a worn-out foundation. The house is completely cleared of furniture, household appliances and belongings, the doors are removed and the floor is dismantled. The building is then raised with hydraulic jacks and a new pile or strip foundation is laid under the foundation.

Strengthening the foundation with an armored belt- a protective, monolithic belt is erected on the outside. Reinforced belt is a closed reinforced concrete strip that follows the contours of the walls. A trench is dug along the perimeter of the entire house along the old foundation (width - 0.5 m, depth - 0.8 m more than the level of the old foundation). A “cushion” of sand, crushed stone and gravel is laid at the bottom of the trench, and the sheathing is made of boards and plywood.

Clean the old foundation, treat it with a deep penetration primer, drive several rows of horizontal pins into the foundation (distance - 25 cm) and weld them to the reinforcement. Lay a metal mesh over the reinforcement and fill it with concrete.

Repair and strengthening of the walls of a house after reinforcement with an armored belt is carried out no earlier than a year later, since the new foundation may shrink

Sometimes, to build an attic or a “light” second floor it is enough strengthen the corners of the house. The corners are dug to a diameter of about 1 meter and to a depth of more than 0.5 m from the old base. A grid of reinforcement (cell size - 20*20 cm) is welded to the metal rods of the old foundation, and the space is filled with concrete solution.

The walls and foundation of the house can be unloaded. For this, an external or internal frame is erected.

External frame. Along the contour of the house, columns and single-span beam-walls are installed on an independent foundation - they act as load-bearing structures and partitions. Between the wall of the house and the beams you can place a balcony or arrange a loggia.

Structurally, the second floor is in no way connected with the first floor of the house and rests on its “own” piles. In fact, it is a separate building on long stilts; two houses are connected by common communications.

Inner frame - bearing structures are built inside the house. The load from the second floor superstructure is distributed between the old load-bearing walls and the reinforcing frame.

Do-it-yourself second floor of a house: step-by-step progress of work

Let's consider the construction of a second floor from frame panels, which can be purchased ready-made or made independently.

To create building panels use:

wooden beams (hold volume and shape);
chipboard sheets for external cladding of panels;
thermal insulation material - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, etc. (insulation thickness is about 16 mm).

A frame is constructed from the beams, an external panel is screwed to it, filled with insulation and covered with a second sheet of chipboard.

Sequence of construction of an additional floor:

You need to think in advance about the placement of the stairs to the second floor of the house. When arranging a full-fledged residential floor, the staircase opening is made from the hallway or living room. You can access the attic from the terrace, veranda or corridor.

Opening and staircase to the second floor of the house: photo

To create interior walls, it is better to use plasterboard sheets - they are lightweight and will not create additional load on the walls and foundation of the house

Features of the construction of an attic floor

Second floor design: photo

The living room can be located on the second floor of the attic type. A small room seems quite spacious thanks to large windows and good lighting.

The bedroom is on the full second floor. White furniture refreshes the room and makes the room brighter. This technique is especially relevant for rooms decorated with wood and lining.

In the attic you can arrange a cozy home cinema. Natural materials were used in the interior - wood, and artificial - plastic panels. Colorful bean bags and cushions add comfort and warmth.

The curved shapes of the ceiling appear softer thanks to the light colors and textile frame of the window.

Staircase to the attic floor, decorated with artistic forging.

A relaxation terrace on the roof of a house is a fashionable and practical option for arranging a flat roof.

Design of the second floor hall. The use of mirrors made it possible to visually expand the narrow corridor.

Regarding your question, I would like to describe to you one example of a superstructure design, based on the experience of my neighbor down the street. I helped him carry out some of the work on constructing the superstructure, so I am familiar with almost the entire process.

Typically, this method of add-ons is used if weather conditions do not allow choosing the option of completely dismantling the roof, but an add-on needs to be done. But there is one “but”. If your roof is covered with metal tiles or bitumen wave slate, then it is best to dismantle the roofing material and leave only the waterproofing material - roofing felt, etc. In this case, you still avoid getting the ceiling wet from the attic side with subsequent water getting inside the house.

Let's consider this option for installing a superstructure without reference to any dimensions of the house and the superstructure itself, since the dimensions are not of fundamental importance and can be different, but the installation process itself needs to be considered in order to avoid mistakes during the installation of the superstructure, which could negatively affect the quality of the work performed.

Before starting work on constructing the superstructure, you need to prepare the following building materials:

beam with a section of 150x150 mm for tying the base of the superstructure and floor beams

beam with a section of 150x100 mm for the installation of vertical posts of the superstructure and ceiling beams

beam with a cross section of 100x80 mm for the installation of the upper frame of the superstructure and rafter system

25mm thick edged board for cladding the walls of the superstructure and roof sheathing

floorboard 40 mm thick and mineral wool insulation

hydro-vapor barrier materials (roofing felt, glassine, waterproofing films and membranes, etc.)

If the house is covered with siding, then you need to purchase additional siding of the same color. You will also need bars with a cross section of 50x50 (40x40) mm for lathing the gables of the superstructure.

First of all, you need to remove the ceiling insulation from the attic of the house so that there is easy access to the ceiling beams. After which you need to make the bottom frame - the base of the walls of the superstructure from timber with a section of 150x150 mm.

There is no need to fasten the beams of the base of the superstructure together yet, since the assembly of the base of the superstructure and the assembly of the superstructure itself are first carried out on the ground, you adjust all structural elements superstructure, and then assemble the superstructure and fasten its structural parts directly on the house itself.

The best way to connect the beams of the base of the superstructure is “in the paw” (E), and the side vertical posts are also attached to the base. The best way to attach corner posts to the base is using the “groove-tenon” method (G), where the groove is made in the base beams, and the tenon is made on the corner posts of the superstructure.

The assembly of the superstructure on the house (B) begins with the construction of the base (A) (lower trim). The timber is laid on the ceiling beams (B) and attached to them using construction brackets or dowels (Z). After that, you need to make markings on the roof of the house (D) in the places where the vertical posts of the superstructure will be installed and make holes (D) in the slate, the size of which is 5 mm larger than the section of the beam. The racks must be located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the rafters of the roof being replaced so that they can be easily dismantled during the installation of the superstructure.

You can make holes in the slate as follows:

mark the location of the hole in the slate

drill a through hole of the required diameter to accommodate the jigsaw file (the jigsaw file must have a fine tooth)

slowly, using a jigsaw, cut out the necessary through holes in the slate along the marking lines.

Having cut the required number of holes in the roof covering, and if required in the sheathing, you can begin installing the vertical posts of the superstructure. You check the vertical installation of the racks using a plumb line; the distance between the racks can be controlled using a pre-made template from a block with a cross-section of 30x30 mm. The racks are fastened to the base of the superstructure using wood grouse screws.

Note:Installation of the outer posts at the gables of the house is carried out later after dismantling the roof and the gables themselves. This will be described a little later in this article.

After installing the vertical posts of the superstructure, you begin laying the longitudinal beams. The beams serve simultaneously as a link between the left and right posts, and as a ceiling beam when constructing the superstructure. The connection of the racks and longitudinal beams is carried out with a groove in the tenon or you make notches in the beam on both sides, the length of the notch is equal to the width of the rack, the depth of the notch should be no more than 1/2 the thickness of the beam.

Make cuts on top of the longitudinal beams to lay two beams (A) in them, the length of which should be equal to the length of the house. The size of the notches is notch width 100 mm, depth 75 mm (dimensions are given for timber with a cross-section of 150x100mm). If the beams are short, they can be extended by connecting the composite beams together using the “claw” method and reinforced with a board-overlay on both sides.

These two beams are necessary in order to make the top of the roof along the entire length of the house, since in this version of the superstructure the outer racks are installed after the roof is dismantled, and the overhang of these beams will serve as the basis for temporary fastening of the outer (gable) trusses .

Next, make the flooring from edged boards 25 mm thick (B). The ends of the boards should only reach half the width of the longitudinal beams located at the edges of the gable of the house, so that in the subsequent installation of the superstructure it is possible to complete the flooring (join the flooring boards together with the longitudinal beams, the second in line from the front and rear gables of the roof).

For the device of the upper part mansard roof you need to make rafter trusses and install them on top of the superstructure and attach them to the longitudinal beams using dowels (metal pins with a diameter of no more than 6 mm can be used as dowels), having previously drilled unloading holes in the beam of the base of the truss truss to avoid cracking of the beam.

When the trusses are installed, it is necessary to make a sheathing from boards 25mm thick (you can use an unedged board for this). Afterwards it is necessary to make a hydro-vapor barrier (A) of the roof and cover it with roofing material (B). Cover the gable of the top of the mansard roof with boards (B).

When the upper part of the roof is ready, it is necessary to dismantle the old roof; the floor of the house that is not protected by the roof can be covered with roofing felt, this place is no more than 1 m in width. Then you need to sheathe the outer walls of the superstructure with edged or tongue-and-groove boards (B). When you finish constructing the walls of the superstructure, you need to waterproof them from the outside (glassine, waterproofing films, etc.).

From the sides of the superstructure, install the rafters (A) of the side part of the roof, at the top, fasten the rafters to the side posts using capercaillie screws, at the bottom, fasten the rafters to the wall of the house (side fastening with construction staples). The sheathing (B) of the sides of the roof is made from the same boards as the sheathing of the upper part of the roof of the house.

Having installed the outer racks of the superstructure, you finish covering the side walls with boards and sew up the end walls - on the front side of the house in the end wall of the superstructure, install a window (B) and make waterproofing. Then you finish covering the roof with roofing material (A). On the end walls, make a sheathing (B) from bars with a cross-section of 30x30 mm for subsequent thermal insulation and finishing of the pediment with siding or decorative lining.

Having completed insulating the end walls of the superstructure, cover them with waterproofing materials and carry out finishing work on the roof gable (B) and end walls. Bring up the chimney pipe (A). Place the canopy (B) in place over the entrance to the house, and begin finishing the superstructure from the inside (the residential part of the superstructure).

As you can see from the picture, you not only get additional living space in your home, but also modify its architectural style.

Note:If you have never carried out work on installing a roof, superstructures, etc., then for the safety of your health and guaranteed quality of the superstructure, I recommend that you seek help from specialists.

This article is an overview of the most popular types of stairs, and also contains practical advice on how to make and calculate stairs to the second floor in a private house with your own hands. Scheme, calculations, dimensions, and drawings are attached. At the end of each chapter there is a video with a visual display of the construction process.

For ease of reading, the article is divided into several chapters:

the first chapter contains general recommendations;
the second chapter presents methods for creating a spiral staircase project that can be used at work;
the third, fourth and fifth chapters have examples on creating conventional structures from wood, concrete and metal;
the latter offers 10 design designs and answers the question about the optimal width.

For convenience, the article has a navigation panel with which you can go to any item and start reading from the required chapter.

Example of a metal staircase project

How to calculate the stairs to the second floor in a private house correctly with your own hands - general recommendations

The staircase is used for comfortable movement between floors. As a rule, this design is used daily - two-story houses are most often built with bedrooms and a bathroom on the second floor. From this we can derive the two most important rules when designing a structure - safety and convenience.

Above the shelves

Important: Stairs are a source of increased trauma for people of all ages. A fall can have an extremely negative impact on a person’s health, so you should make it as safe as possible. There are several ways to do this that allow you to completely minimize the risks.

First of all, it is necessary to make steps of optimal height and width. It’s easy to trip on steps that are too high, and it’s extremely difficult to walk on narrow ones, so you can easily slip. It is necessary to take this into account when designing, including the size in advance in the project.

In a big house

The most optimal height of steps can be considered 150-200mm. This is enough to take a confident step, without fear of stumbling or placing your foot incorrectly. The depth or width must be at least 200mm - this requirement is easy to obtain from the average length of a person’s leg.

In addition, every staircase needs railings. They allow you to move with greater comfort and safety - the risk of falling is significantly reduced.

Important: The material must be non-slippery. It is better not to make stairs from tiles or varnished wood - they have a smooth surface that is very inconvenient for movement. If wood is used, it is not superfluous to sandpaper the steps or cover the steps with carpet.

Above the sofa

Convenience often depends on security. If the steps are safe, then at the same time they will be comfortable. Of course, sometimes, for the sake of convenience, you can deviate somewhat from the standard sizes - if they are used only by a tall person, you can make the height of the steps more than 200mm.

Graph of the relationship between the slope of the stairs and ease of use

How to make a screw structure yourself

The spiral staircase has its own special appearance, due to which it becomes possible to create a design that is completely unlike anything else. In addition, the screw design allows you to save a lot of space on both floors, making the room more ergonomic.

Screw

Calculation of a spiral staircase to the second floor

In the case of creating a spiral staircase to the second floor, the calculation must begin with the number of steps and the height of their location. Based on what was said in the last chapter, the optimal height between steps is 200mm, and the depth is 200-300mm. But we must take into account that the steps of spiral staircases look like expanding cones, and therefore their depth must be calculated in a special way.

With central pillar

It is better to use mathematical formulas for calculations. First, you need to find out the circumference of the structure. The most convenient way to do this is using the formula 2*3.14*r, where r is the span width. For example, with a span width of 1000 mm, the circumference will be 6280 mm. To get the width of the step from the outside, it is enough to divide this distance by the number of steps in one span. For example, with 10 steps the distance will be 628mm, which will allow you to create a smooth staircase without voids.

Calculation diagram for the screw model

The height of the structure is determined by the height of the room, just as when creating a regular staircase. The height between the steps should be optimal - for example, 150-250mm is usually enough. It is better to calculate the optimal height based on the height of the room. For example, the ceiling height in the room is 2700mm. The steps will be 20mm thick, the floor thickness will be 150mm.

Advice: Calculations must begin with the floor - the floor is the zero step. First, you need to sum up the height of the room and the ceiling, since this is the distance the staircase should go to. In this case it is equal to 2850mm. To get the number of steps, you need to divide it by the suitable height of one step with its height - for example, 220mm. The result, rounded up, is 13 steps. The last, 13th step, in this case will serve as the floor of the second floor.

Graphic construction and dimensions

At this stage, it is best to create the project on paper. It is not necessary to make it as accurate as possible in the drawing plan, but even a simple sketch will help to better understand the project.

Dimensions of spiral staircases to the second floor

When calculating the size, it is necessary to start from the most comfortable width of the stairs of 800-1000mm. This is enough to walk even with a large load on your hands, without restricting your movements (unfortunately, large furniture will still have to be lifted through the windows).

Screw model project

A spiral staircase is a circle, so the diameter is equal to the addition of the width of the passages and, if the staircase is built with a central support, the size of the support. On average, the diameter of such a structure is 1600-2000mm, which is enough for its convenient use, regardless of its features. More details in the table below

Advice: Very often the size of the stairs depends on the height of the ceiling. For a small country house there is no point in making a very wide staircase - 700mm will be enough to get to the second floor. For attics, exactly the same rule applies.

Video project of a spiral staircase

This video shows how to make stairs to the second floor in a private house with your own hands (the diagram and dimensions of the project are attached). The main points of installation are shown, as well as all the features of working with this type of structure.

DIY wooden staircase to the second floor

An ordinary staircase can be built using similar calculations and methods. A do-it-yourself wooden staircase to the second floor in a private house is much simpler to make than a spiral staircase, but takes up relatively more space. Next, we will consider the main points of the calculation and video instructions.

Made of wood

Calculation of a wooden staircase to the second floor

In this case, it is necessary to start from the same average values - with a depth of 200-250mm and a height of 200-250mm. The distance must be divided in the same way - calculating from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second floor.

Calculation example

The calculation of a wooden staircase to the second floor must take into account the length - it is the addition of the depth of all steps. The more there are, the longer the length itself will be. For an ordinary staircase in a room, on average, 10-12 steps are enough, which in total will be equal to 2000-2500mm with a depth of 200mm and 2500-3000mm with a depth of 250mm.

Design of a staircase with a 90 degree turn

Advice: The average width of such a structure should be 800-1000mm. This size should provide complete freedom of action. Therefore, if railings are planned, then there should be additional space for them on the steps.

The opening above the structure should begin from the place where less than 2000-2200 mm remains from the step to the ceiling - this is enough for anyone of any height. You should not make the opening too short - savings in this case can result in inconvenience and additional labor costs.

Designations

If you plan to create a turn, then it must be calculated under the same conditions - the only change is the width of the step - steps in the area of the turn are calculated similarly to screw steps, but they can be made with an emphasis on the wall.

Video instruction

This video provides instructions for designing and installing a wooden staircase with a 90-degree turn.

DIY concrete staircase to the second floor - video instructions

Concrete is an excellent material for stairs - it is very durable and allows you to work with any volume. Often for such a design it is enough just to assemble the frame and fill it.

Formwork for concrete structures

Important: It should be noted that creating a concrete staircase to the second floor with your own hands requires a very large investment - a completely cast structure requires a huge amount of concrete. Most likely, you will have to order a full-fledged concrete mixer - the process will take an extremely long time using the usual manual method.

Cast design

To facilitate this process, the span should be additionally strengthened with different blocks. A good idea is to create a frame of foam blocks, on which the formwork is subsequently laid. This allows you to get additional space under the structure and use it for household needs.

The video below shows the process of assembling the formwork and pouring it, depicting the main points of the work.

Do-it-yourself metal staircase to the second floor - calculation and video instructions

Metal is an extremely flexible and yet durable material. A do-it-yourself metal staircase to the second floor, unfortunately, is not the most comfortable - it is quite difficult to heat it, but the strength will be very high. In addition, a metal staircase takes up little space - this is important for houses with a small total area.

Iron construction

Features of the calculation in this case include the fact that the metal stage takes up very little space. Usually its size is 5-10mm, and despite the entire height of the structure, their total volume rarely exceeds 90-100mm.

The calculations are no different from ordinary stairs, but with the difference that it is necessary to take into account the resistance of materials. For the structure, we recommend using metal pipes with a wall thickness of at least 8mm, and for steps - reinforcement no thinner than 7mm. At the same time, with wide steps, thicker options should be used that will not sag under the weight of a person.

Do-it-yourself single-flight iron staircase to the second floor

Advice: If the structure is created from square profiles, it is worth selecting them with a cross-section of at least 5 mm - square profiles are much more stable than round ones due to their hard edges. You can work with metal using both welding and fasteners.

The video below shows an example of creating a metal staircase structure, which is subsequently covered with plasterboard. It displays the main points of the work.

What should be the width of the stairs to the second floor in a private house - the correct dimensions?

This question is purely personal. Despite the optimal span width of 800-1000mm, given value can vary greatly depending on a person's personal preferences. It must be taken into account that the wider the opening, the more resources will be required.

Width examples different types stairs

It is worth setting a separate minimum limit of 500mm - a narrower design will be completely inconvenient to use, and moving some things or furniture along it will be quite problematic. The maximum limit depends solely on the room, but still, you should not make the width more than 2000-2500mm, especially in cases where the staircase is not the main one in the hall.