Frame house step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself frame house: step-by-step assembly instructions with photos. Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

Prefabricated houses are attractive because once the foundation is ready, the house itself can be erected very quickly. For example, building a frame house with your own hands, with the help of two people, is possible in a month without haste. And this is if inexperienced workers are involved in the construction, who only know how to hold a hammer in their hands. This is because the assembly occurs step by step: regular repetition of simple actions. It is only important to know how to correctly assemble each unit. Having instructions and understanding the principle of construction, anyone can assemble a frame house on their own.

Frame construction is no less attractive because it can be done at minimal cost. How much money will be required for construction depends on the size of the house and the materials used (type and grade of wood, finishing materials). But in any case, this is one of the cheapest methods. (

Timber frame houses are not the only ones. There are regions where wood is a luxury. They put it there. Despite the fact that metal is not cheap today, it still turns out to be relatively inexpensive.

One more thing. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to leave a frame house unfinished, and if so, at what stages. The answer is yes, and the first stage is known to everyone: the finished foundation is left to winter. The following wintering options are also possible:

• foundation + frame + roof (without floor);
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection;
• foundation + frame + roof + external cladding OSB + wind protection + mounted and insulated floor and ceiling + partitions.

It is dangerous to leave windows and doors unattended over the winter. In other options, delaying the completion of construction is even a good idea: the wood will dry out. In winter, as a rule, there is low humidity and drying is active. At the same time, identify all the jambs in the already assembled part.

After pouring the piles, a grillage is installed, and the reinforcement is laid and tied into it. Longitudinal rods are connected to bent reinforcement outlets from the piles. At this stage, holes are left in the tape for supplying communications and (insert pieces plastic pipes across the tape).

The strapping beam will subsequently be attached to the foundation strip. To install it, studs are fixed in the tape. They are installed in increments of 1-2 meters. From each corner, 30 cm are retreated in both directions. Here, studs are required, the rest depending on the dimensions of the house, but at least every 2 meters. Please note that it is the studs that connect the frame of the house to the foundation. That’s why it’s better to deliver more often. And one more thing: no matter how short the wall is, there must be at least two studs.

When everything is ready, the concrete is poured.

After pouring the concrete, so that it does not dry out, but gains strength, it is better to cover it with polyethylene (look at the photo). If the temperature after pouring the foundation remains within +20°C, construction can continue after about 3-5 days. During this time, under such conditions, concrete will gain more than 50% of its strength. You can work with it freely. When the temperature drops, the period increases significantly. So at +17°C you need to wait about 10 days.

Step 2: Bottom Rail and Floor

To prevent the wood of the frame from drawing moisture from the concrete, cut-off waterproofing of the foundation is necessary. The safest way to do this is with bitumen mastic. And it’s better - in two layers. You can also use roll waterproofing. Roofing felt is cheaper, but it breaks over time. Waterproofing or other similar modern material is more reliable.

You can coat the grillage once with mastic, and roll out waterproofing on top. Another option for cut-off waterproofing under a frame house is two layers of waterproofing coated with mastic: the closer the groundwater is, the more thorough the waterproofing should be.

The first layer is liquid waterproofing. While it is not dry, you can glue a layer of rolled waterproofing on it.

Then the beds are laid - boards measuring 150 * 50 mm. They must be dry, impregnated with bioprotective and fire-retardant compounds. The edge of the bed is aligned with the outer edge of the foundation. In the necessary places, holes are drilled for the studs (the diameter of the hole is 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the stud). Then the second board is laid. It is placed so as to cover the joint of the first row. It turns out to be a castle.

The second board is laid so that the joints overlap

In general, you can lay one beam of 100-150 cm, but its price is much higher than two boards, which together give the same thickness, and properly fastened two boards have a greater load-bearing capacity, although their installation takes more time. To make them work as a single beam, they are knocked down with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

We install the harness and logs

The next stage is installation and installation of the logs. These are the same 150*50 mm boards placed on edge. They are attached with two oblique nails (9 cm) at the end to the trim board, two nails on the right and left to the bed. So each lag is on both sides.

The photo shows that the first joist is installed close to the second - this way the load is better transferred to the foundation. It is installed along the second edge of the bed. The installation step is 40-60 cm. It depends on the length of the span and the cross-section of the lumber used: the longer the length, the smaller the step.

If the logs are long and there is a cross beam, as in the photo above, to prevent the logs from “moving away,” jumpers are placed above the cross beam. Their length is equal to the step of installing the logs minus the double thickness of the board: if the step of the log is 55 cm, the thickness of the board is 5 cm, then the jumper will be 45 cm long.

Insulation and flooring

After the base for the flooring has been installed, it is time to insulate the floor. It can be done in different ways, with different materials. We will show you an economical option - with polystyrene foam boards with a density of 15 kg/m3 (more is possible, less is not possible). It is, of course, not environmentally friendly, but it is the only one that is not afraid of moisture and can be installed without a subfloor. The estimated thickness of the insulation is 150 mm, two layers are laid: one 10 cm, the second 5 cm. The seams of the second layer should not coincide with the seams of the first (they shift).

To begin with, a 50*50 mm cranial block is packed along the lower edge of the log. It will hold the foam.

The foam is cut with a regular hacksaw. The blade can be used on wood - it cuts faster, but you get a torn edge, or on metal - it goes slower, but the edge is smoother. The cut slabs are laid in two layers, the seams overlap. Then they seal the perimeter with sealant to ensure waterproofing.

Next, lay the subfloor from boards, level it and lay plywood on top (preferably FSF 5-6 mm). To prevent the rough flooring of boards from warping, lay the boards alternating the direction of the wave. If you look at the cross section of the board, the annual rings go in a semicircle. So, you need the arc to look up and down (see photo).

You can do without plank flooring. Then the thickness of the plywood should be at least 15 mm. Consider what is more profitable in your region and choose.

In any case, the sheets should be laid in a spaced pattern - the seams should not match (as in brickwork). Also, do not forget to leave a gap of 3-5 mm between the sheets of plywood to compensate for changes in size when humidity changes.

The plywood is attached with self-tapping screws 35 mm long (preferably white ones - less waste) around the perimeter in increments of 12 cm, inside in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 40 cm.

Step 3: Frame Walls

There are two ways: the wall frame is assembled (all or part, depending on the size) on the floor, then raised, positioned and secured. Sometimes with this method, OSB, gypsum fiber board, or plywood are attached directly to the floor on the outside of the frame: the rigidity is greater. This technology is called frame-panel or “platform”. Factories generally operate on this principle: they build ready-made panels according to the design in the workshop, bring them to the site and only install them there. But frame-panel house construction is possible with your own hands.

The second method: everything is assembled gradually, locally. The beam of the bottom frame is nailed, the corner posts are set, then the intermediate posts, the top frame, etc. This is the technology called “frame house construction” or “balloon”.

Which one is more convenient? It depends on how many people work and whether it is possible, at least periodically, to attract help. Working on the floor is faster and more convenient than jumping up/down a stepladder countless times. But if the assembled section is large, then it will be difficult even for two people to lift it. The solution is either to call help or to break the wall frame into small segments.

Installation step and cross-section of racks

Corner posts should be 150*150 mm or 100*100 mm, depending on the load and the required width of the insulation. For a one-story frame house, 100 mm is enough, for a two-story frame house - at least 150 mm. The intermediate posts are the same in depth as the corner posts, and their thickness is at least 50 mm.

The installation step of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but in reality it is more often selected based on the width of the insulation. If you will be insulating with mineral wool in rolls or mats, first find out the actual width of the material. The gap between the posts should be 2-3 cm less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no waste, no gaps and cracks through which heat will escape. The density of installation of insulation in frames is the main point, because only it will serve as protection from the cold. The slightest violation will lead to the fact that the house will be cold. Therefore, the selection of insulation and its installation must be treated with full attention.

Fastening the racks is possible in several ways: with wooden dowels, with a notch or on corners. The cut into the board of the bottom trim should be no more than 50% of its depth. The corners are attached on both sides. Fastening with dowels is an old technology, but difficult to implement: long dowels are planed, a hole is drilled obliquely through the stand and beam of the lower trim, a wooden tenon is driven into it, the excess of which is cut off. It works well if the wood used is dry. If not, drying out and loss of fastening rigidity is possible. Installation on reinforced corners is much easier.

According to Canadian technology, the beams to which windows and doors are attached are made double. There is more load here, therefore the support must be more powerful.

Reinforced counters near windows and doors are a must. This is the only way a frame house built with your own hands will be reliable

Bevels or braces

If the outer cladding is planned to be made of high-strength slab material - OSB, gypsum fiber board, gypsum fiber board, plywood - temporary slopes are installed from the inside of the room. They are needed to level and maintain geometry until the outer skin is attached. The strength of this material is sufficient to create the required structural rigidity.

If the cladding is planned to be made up of linings, etc. installation of permanent jibs is required. Moreover, the best option is not those that are placed on several racks, but four small pieces for each: two on top and two on the bottom (as in the photo below).

Please note that in the photo above the racks are prefabricated: two boards are nailed together along the entire length in a checkerboard pattern. Such racks have even greater load-bearing capacity than solid ones and cost less. This is a real way to reduce construction costs without losing quality. But construction time increases: you have to hammer in a lot of nails.

Corners of a frame house

The most questions arise when building corners. If you place a beam in a corner, then there seem to be no difficulties, except that the corner turns out to be cold. In regions with short and mild winters this is not a problem, but in central Russia it requires some kind of solution.

There are several ways to make the corner of a frame house warm. All of them are shown in diagrams, so it’s clearer.

After assembling the frame, it is most often sheathed on the outside with OSB, plywood or other similar material.

Step 4: Covering

The floor beams rest on the beam of the upper frame. There are several mounting methods:

• on supporting steel brackets;
• on the corners;
• with insert;

Notching - the depth of the cut should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the top frame timber. It is hammered in from above with two nails, which must go into the harness at least 10 cm. Corners are the usual method. You can use reinforced, but not necessarily perforated staples - the shape may vary

The dimensions of the beams and the pitch of their installation depend on what will be on top. If the second residential floor or, the cross-section is taken larger, the step is made smaller: so that the floor does not sag. If only the roof and attic on top are assumed to be non-residential, these are completely different calculations and dimensions.

If the second floor is being completed, the ceiling is sheathed with the subfloor of the second floor. This will make it easier to work on creating the second floor of a frame house. Its assembly is no different from the construction of the first one. The only reason is that all the lumber has to be hauled to the second floor.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

When developing a house project using frame technology, the most popular are or. Their device is no different. All the same principles and calculations. The only limitation concerns the weight of the roof covering: it must be lightweight material, the load from which wooden beams and floors can withstand.

To fix the rafters in a given position before the sheathing was filled, temporary jibs were used

Another relatively inexpensive technology

Step 6: Insulation

A frame house can be insulated with any of the materials available on the market with the appropriate characteristics. All of them are imperfect, but all problems have standard solutions.

The most popular insulation for frame walls is basalt wool. It is available in the form of rolls or mats of different densities. It is more convenient to install mats in walls: they are denser and hold themselves well due to the pushing force. To do this, as mentioned above, their dimensions should be 2-3 cm larger than the distance between the frame posts. The mats, of course, are additionally fixed with special fasteners, but it is more convenient to work with than with a soft roll.

Mineral wool has high thermal insulation characteristics and good sound insulation. But there is also a serious drawback: it is afraid of getting wet and it must be protected on all sides not only from moisture (rain), but also from the penetration of steam. Therefore, from the side of the room it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which prevents vapors from penetrating inside.

On the street side, thermal insulation from mineral wool closed with another membrane, but of a different type with different characteristics: hydro-wind-protective vapor-permeable membrane. It is not blown, does not allow moisture in liquid or gaseous states to pass through from the street, and vapors can escape from the insulation: vapor permeability is one-sided. After installing the insulation, only finishing work remains. Actually, that's it, construction is finished.

Now you know how to build a frame house. The detail of some processes is far from complete, but you have a general assembly sequence. Perhaps another video from a professional carpenter who has been building for decades will help you frame houses(see below).

Video instructions for installing frame houses

These are three videos of excellent carpenter Larry Hohn. Each of them lasts more than an hour. The technology for building a frame house on a finished foundation is described in great detail.

According to these instructions, self-construction is possible without any questions: all stages of building a frame house and small details are commented on and explained, down to what nails, what length, how many pieces in what increments, should be hammered into each node. The main problems that may arise and methods for correcting them are demonstrated. If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, take the time to watch the movie. Much will become clearer to you.

The first part is the lower trim and the floor.

The second part of the video is the construction and assembly of frame walls.

The third part is building the roof of a frame house.

If you still doubt whether to build a frame house, it’s probably because you’ve heard that this is a bad technology, that it doesn’t work for us. There is such an opinion. But it is based on the fact that Canadian and American frame houses are built from dry wood, with moisture. no more than 20-22%. In our conditions, wood is brought from the sawmill with almost natural humidity, and this is up to 60%. That’s why the houses twist and turn, they become cold.

But if you are planning to build a house with your own hands, what will stop you from using dry wood? Kiln drying is expensive, the difference per cubic meter is very significant - almost twice. But by stacking the wood on the site in ventilated piles, it can be dried to the same 20-22% within a year. You decide for yourself whether or not to impregnate it with bioprotection before drying. Dry wood does not rot or be damaged by fungi, but it is advisable to impregnate it with bioprotection against insects.

An example of this opinion is in the video. With an explanation of why the technology is bad...

A frame-panel house is chosen due to its relative cheapness, speed of construction and the possibility of occupancy immediately after construction. After all, finishing the walls is not required, just connect the communications and you can start living. At the same time, to build a house from SIP panels, special equipment is not needed. You can manage on your own.

The frame house is also assembled on site from ready-made elements. All the necessary building materials are delivered to the construction site; all you need to do is assemble them like a construction set.

But, in order to further reduce the cost of building such a house, frame-panel elements can be made independently. Of course, this will require excellent construction skills, because the slightest error in measurements can lead to misalignment of the entire building.

Proper foundation design is the key to the reliability of the entire building.

Where does the construction of a house begin? Of course, from the construction of the foundation! But how to choose the optimal foundation for your home so that the reliability of the building does not suffer and you do not overpay?

Types of foundations - their advantages and disadvantages

So, there are only three options for foundations, all the rest are their variations:

• tape;
• columnar;
• pile or pile-screw.

For heavy buildings, this is the best option, and besides, it will never be superfluous to have your own basement. But this is also the most expensive option, because you will have to take care of proper waterproofing, and the amount of concrete poured is directly proportional to the depth of the foundation.

A columnar foundation is the most economical and easiest to build with your own hands. Even a novice builder can handle it without using complex and expensive equipment. Shallow foundations are suitable for non-heaving and slightly heaving soils and light buildings.

Otherwise, the depth of the foundation should also be below the freezing level of the soil.

A foundation on piles is a universal option. There is no need for a level platform - the piles themselves are leveled. The house can even be placed on a slope, which significantly reduces construction costs. But to drive or screw in piles you will have to use special equipment.

Construction of a columnar foundation - how not to make unforgivable mistakes

So, the choice fell on the simplest and most economical foundation option - a columnar one. But here it is important not to undercut the price, otherwise it will be very difficult to correct mistakes in the future. For example, under no circumstances should you simply place pillars on a concrete platform!

In just one season, such a “foundation” will unevenly sink into the ground, distorting the entire house.

Stages of foundation construction:

Even larch timber will begin to rot in such conditions. It is mandatory to lay several layers of roofing material under the tree.

According to SNiPs, the grillage support board must be secured to the foundation with anchors with a diameter of 12 mm or more. To do this, anchors are pre-embedded in the pillars, and holes of the required diameter are drilled in the boards. To prevent the wooden grillage from rotting, the anchor bolts are treated with bitumen along with the foundation pillars.

Laying and insulating floors - what you need to know

The lower trim is mounted on the grillage. The floor joists are laid on support bars and can be cut into the frame beam or attached to it with metal corners from the inside.

Without a basement floor, special attention must be paid to floor insulation, otherwise the cold air blown in from the underground will significantly worsen living conditions. And for the insulation to last a long time, it must be well insulated from moisture.

How not to confuse waterproofing with vapor barrier and what this will lead to

The waterproofing film is water- and vapor-tight on both sides. That is why it is believed that it should be located on the outside and protect the insulation from the influence of the external environment. But in this case, excess moisture will condense in the insulation, worsening its properties. The optimal solution is a vapor-permeable windproofing that does not allow moisture to pass through from the outside, but evaporates it from the inside.

The vapor barrier protects the insulation from the ingress of vapors generated inside the building. It should be laid on the inside close to the insulation. But in the case of the floor, everything is not so simple, because the water will not evaporate downwards, settling just on the vapor barrier laid on the insulation.

That is why a vapor barrier is laid on the floor on top of the insulation with a mandatory ventilation gap between the insulation and the floor boards, allowing moisture to evaporate.

Choice of insulation and installation technology

But how to choose insulation? Of course, the main criterion will always be price and availability in a particular region. If the choice is quite diverse, you can compare the advantages and disadvantages of the most popular ones:

• sawdust is a natural and often cheap insulation material, but requires antiseptic treatment and cakes over time;
• expanded clay is a natural and in some areas cheap insulation, but heavy and hygroscopic;
• vermiculite is a natural heat-intensive material that does not retain moisture, but is still quite heavy;
• ecowool - consists of recycled materials, does not contain harmful additives, but also cakes over time;
• mineral insulation is hygroscopic, which requires increased attention to waterproofing, but is easy to install;
• polystyrene foam is a non-hygroscopic and very light material, but practically airtight, which does not allow creating a “breathable” atmosphere in the house.

Installation of walls of a frame-panel house without special equipment

The main thing is to guess the weather and not start building during the rainy season.

DIY shield assembly

A frame house can be built in two ways - by sheathing and insulating a ready-made frame, or by first assembling individual elements and only then installing them. The first method is suitable for small buildings - verandas, closed gazebos and extensions. If large-scale construction is planned, it can be much easier to assemble a house from pre-prepared walls.

To do this you need:

Installing walls on the bottom frame

The finished frames are lifted and screwed to the beams of the lower frame. First, two opposite walls are installed, then the remaining ones. You can do it on your own, the main thing is to attract more help.

After this, you can begin to assemble the internal partitions.

For clarity, the video shows the assembly of the walls of a frame house and their sequential installation:

Panel house roof

It is important not to forget that the beams of the upper frame must cover the joints and joint corners - otherwise the entire structure may become loose in the future. And already on the top frame you can install the rafter system and lay the roofing.

Selection of roofing material

For a frame house, you should choose lightweight materials - this will avoid strengthening the frame of the walls and foundation, which will significantly reduce the cost of construction. Thus, frame-panel houses look great with:

• metal tiles;
• seam roofing;
• corrugated sheeting;
• bitumen shingles;
• Euro slate.

Metal tiles and corrugated sheets are quite easy to install, but are quite noisy when it rains. And if in the house, thanks to a good layer of insulation, this is practically unnoticeable, then being, for example, in an adjacent gazebo during a summer downpour is not very comfortable. Seam roofing is one of the most reliable, but quite difficult to install.

And since it is also assembled from metal elements, its disadvantages are the same as those of the previous options.

Bitumen shingles, also called soft shingles, look very attractive, but require continuous sheathing. Even a non-specialist can handle the installation, but the work is quite painstaking.

But euro slate can be an excellent option for the roof of a frame house. It is light and durable, laid in sheets, does not require special installation skills and can be attached to thin lathing.

Installation of a gable roof rafter system

There are two options for collecting rafter supports - directly on the wall, if the interfloor ceiling is ready, or on the ground and then lifting them up. The last option is useful if there is no interfloor ceiling yet.

What you need to know when installing a rafter system:

It is necessary to insulate the roof only if there is a living space there. Otherwise, it will be sufficient to insulate the attic floor. But if the attic is planned for residential use, the floor is not insulated.

You can install insulation in the under-roof space from the outside, if the roof covering has not yet been laid, or from the inside. The first option is in some ways simpler - the insulation does not need to be lifted above you. But balancing on the roof is quite difficult, so the choice here is entirely individual.

If there is insufficient ventilation under the roofing, the condensate will not evaporate, but will begin to settle and, as a result, the roof elements will collapse. Therefore, it is imperative to leave a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roof. The waterproofing itself is also not always laid close to the insulation - here you need to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. From the inside, the insulation is protected by a vapor barrier layer.

It is necessary not to forget to glue the joints and puncture points of the insulating film with special butyl rubber tape. It provides the necessary tightness, which significantly extends the service life of the insulation.

Thus, building a frame-panel house with your own hands is a difficult job, but it is quite within the capabilities of a confident builder. If you don’t yet have the necessary skills, it’s better to try your hand at building on a smaller scale. For example, a gazebo or garage would be a great start!

Frame construction has been rapidly gaining momentum recently. It has become especially popular among private developers. It is worth noting that in Canada this Government program. In Russia - solving the housing problem on our own. Frame construction makes it possible to build a house in a short time with minimal investment funds.

If we look at it in detail, a frame house is:

• lower and upper trim, fastened with vertical posts, which form a frame for the subsequent installation of walls - both internal and external;
• a base made of timber for the attic space, consisting of load-bearing beams and floors;
• timber rafter system on which the roofing material is mounted - it should not be too heavy;
• Depending on the region of construction, appropriate insulating material is laid between the frame elements.

Important! the thickness of the insulator must correspond to the distance between the wall sheathing.

The frame is sheathed on both sides with moisture-resistant material.

You can build a frame house yourself, without any special construction education. You don’t need a specialized tool for this, just study the technology and be patient, performing all the steps in the construction strictly according to the instructions.

House using Canadian technology - pros and cons

The frame structure has many positive aspects, for example:

1. Cost – if calculated per square meters, it is the lowest, which makes this technology popular all over the world.
2. Speed ​​of construction - a team of three people can build a house in just 1 month, provided that the foundation for the building has already been laid. The entire structure will be ready in 2 months - along with the interior decoration.
3. Low heat capacity and thermal conductivity - modern heat insulators help create comfortable living conditions - both in summer and winter. In addition, the frame structure allows you to save thermal energy - it is enough to heat only those rooms that are needed at the moment.
4. Aesthetics - already during the construction process, you can install all the necessary communications in the walls, “brick up” electrical cables and wiring, and install a ventilation system.
5. There is no need to build a buried foundation, since the weight of the frame structure is small.
6. There is no need to give the structure time to shrink. When constructing a frame structure, dry materials are used that will not shrink later.
7. Environmentally friendly - during construction only natural materials are used that comply with sanitary standards and are safe for humans.
8. Simplicity of finishing inside the building - the walls are sheathed with modern slab materials that do not require plastering, which significantly reduces the time spent on finishing.
9. Resistance to temperature changes - it is worth noting that the frame structure is a kind of thermos that retains heat. Such a structure can be heated periodically.
10. Seismic resistance - this design can withstand vibrations of up to 9 points.
11. Construction can be carried out at any time. Even the foundation can be equipped with a pile-screw foundation.
12. Ease of construction - no heavy equipment is needed for construction, a small construction team is enough.
13. Microclimate – materials for construction are natural, they “breathe”, so a certain microclimate is created in the room.

But if you don’t talk about the disadvantages of frame structures, the picture will be incomplete:

• rapid flammability - in a few minutes the frame structure burns out completely, not even the walls remain;
• danger of fungus and mold - in climatic zones where there is frequent rain, dampness can appear in any structure. In a house built on a frame
• technology, this indicator is very high, so even during construction it is necessary to accurately calculate the “dew point”;
• low sound insulation is, of course, a significant drawback, but it can be eliminated by installing special soundproofing material in the walls;
• The difficulty of interior decoration is the impossibility of hanging heavy objects on the walls if you do not provide for embeddings in advance.

But if you approach construction with all responsibility, you can eliminate shortcomings, for example, follow safety precautions and treat the structure with various antiseptic impregnations.

Foundation for a frame house

In order for the foundation to be strong and serve for many years, you need to choose the right type of foundation. Things to consider:

1. Type of soil on the site.
2. The height of groundwater.
3. Weight of the building.
4. Seasonality of residence.
5. The region in which it is planned to build a house.
6. Wind and snow loads.

Most often, the following types of foundations are installed under a frame building:

• pile;
• pile-grillage;
• tape shallow.

In Russia, a pile-grillage foundation is most often installed for frame buildings. This is one of the types of prefabricated foundations that do not require large financial investments. If you correctly calculate the load and build the structure, strictly adhering to the technology, it will last for a very long time.

Important! If you doubt the reliability of the design, use TISE technology. The piles have an expanded heel, due to which the bearing capacity of the base increases significantly. In addition, the structure will withstand the forces of soil heaving.

Wells for piles can be drilled either motorized or manually. At the bottom of each hole it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion, for this:

1. Compact the bottom of the well well, after spilling it with water;
2. Fill in the gravel-sand mixture - 15-20 cm;
3. Sprinkle it with water and compact it;
4. Fill with concrete, approximately 15 cm.

The pillow is ready.

The following can be used as formwork:

• The walls of the well, if the soil is dense and not prone to crumbling. Just before pouring concrete, you need to arrange waterproofing.
• Ruberoid - a pipe of the required diameter is twisted from it, which is fastened with metallized tape. The material is twisted in at least 4 rows.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are a simpler, but more expensive option.
• PVC pipes - can be purchased at any hardware store.

To strengthen the bearing capacity of the foundation, it is necessary to reinforce the piles, for this:

1. Prepare reinforcement with a cross-section of 16 mm for the main frame, and a diameter of 10 mm for the strapping.
2. Cut the warp rods the right size, not forgetting that they must be 80 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to subsequently tie the grillage reinforcement.
3. Prepare elements for strapping.
4. Construct a triangular structure from the main reinforcement, connecting it with strapping elements at intervals of 40 cm.
5. Lower the finished structure into the shaft strictly vertically.

Everything is ready - you can pour concrete, grade no lower than M250.

Once the concrete has set, the formwork can be installed for the grillage, which can be recessed, raised or suspended. To equip the structure, ready-made plywood panels are used, built directly on site from boards 40 mm thick.

Waterproofing is placed in the formwork and reinforcement is carried out. The longitudinal bars of the frame are connected to the outlets from the piles. You need to make holes in the tape for communications and the ventilation system - to do this, just install sections of pipes.

You also need to prepare pins to secure the strapping beam. Elements should be installed with a distance of 30 cm from the corners, then the step is 1-2 meters. It must be remembered that it is the studs that will connect the base of the house to the foundation, so the more often they are installed, the stronger the structure.

Important! No matter how long the wall is, at least two studs are installed for it.

The next step will be pouring concrete. In order for the structure to gain the required strength and not crack, it should be covered with polyethylene or roofing felt. Further work begins in a week, provided that the air temperature is not lower than +20 degrees. At lower temperatures you will have to wait longer. The main condition is that the concrete must gain at least 50% of its strength.

Bottom rail and floor

Wood tends to absorb moisture, and to prevent it from taking it away from the concrete, you need to install high-quality waterproofing. You can apply the same roofing felt or bitumen mastic in two layers, which is more reliable, since roofing felt can become brittle over time. When insulating work, you need to take into account the location of groundwater - the closer it is, the more layers need to be developed.

The next step is tying, which is done in the following way:

1. For the beds, prepare boards measuring 150x50 mm; they must be dry and impregnated with sewn-in compounds;
2. The boards are aligned along the outer edge of the base;
3. Drill holes for the studs, which should be larger in diameter, approximately 2-3 mm;
4. Lay the first row of boards;
5. The second row of material is arranged in such a way that the joint of the boards of the first row falls in the middle of the board of the second;
6. Nail the boards together with nails at 20 cm intervals in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice! For strapping, you can use 150x100 timber, but its cost is much higher, and boards assembled in this way have a greater load-bearing capacity.

We install the harness and logs

The harness is constructed as follows:

• Take boards measuring 150x50, which should be installed on edge with alignment along the outer edge of the base along the perimeter of the building. Nail them with 200 mm nails to the frame, fastening spacing is 40 cm.
• The logs are mounted from the same board, placed on edge and secured with 90 mm nails; two nails are driven into the end of each board on both sides. The fasteners should be driven in obliquely.
• The first board is installed at a distance of 40 cm from the trim, subsequent elements are installed at the same distance, but you should understand that the longer the board, the smaller the distance between the logs.

Important! If the logs are very long, then a transverse beam is installed onto which jumpers are nailed so that the structure stands firmly.

Insulation and flooring

As soon as the joist structure is constructed, you can begin arranging the subfloor. It can be built from boards 250 mm thick. To do this, 5x5 cm slats are stuffed onto the logs along the bottom edge, onto which elements of the required length are laid. Nail each piece of board with 4 nails, 2 on each edge.

The rough coating is ready, you can begin insulation. For this purpose, polystyrene foam is used - it is environmentally friendly, cheap and moisture resistant. The thickness of the insulation in this situation should be 15 cm. To do this, lay the first layer of 10 cm. All cracks and gaps must be foamed. The second row is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the material is 5 cm thick.

It’s worth talking about polystyrene foam, which has many advantages:

• easy;
• easy to install - cut with a hacksaw or a stationery knife;
• environmentally friendly;
• inexpensive;
• has a long service life;
• a layer thickness of 15 cm is capable of retaining heat, like an ordinary brick wall.

After this, you can lay the finished floor, on which the floor covering will subsequently be installed. The floor can be made of plywood 15 mm thick or OSB board 12 mm thick, in 2 layers. It is worth noting that OSB is cheaper, so this material is preferred by many private developers.

The sheets are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and a gap of 3 mm should be left between the sheets to compensate, since the material can change its volume due to changes in humidity.
The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws, 35 mm long, along the seams in 12 cm increments, along the perimeter of the sheet 25 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

Construction of walls

There are two ways to install walls:

Frame-panel option:

1. Assemble the frame of the walls on the floor - you can do it all at once, you can do it in parts;
2. Sheathe the frame from the outside with OSB or GVL slabs;
3. Raise the elements, level them strictly vertically and secure them.

This assembly principle is used by factories - panels are assembled in workshops according to a specific design, which are then delivered to the construction site and mounted on a finished foundation with strapping. Also, frame-panel technology can be used when building a house structure with your own hands.

Method - balloon:

1. A beam of 100x100 or 150x150 is attached to the bottom trim around the perimeter, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation, the pitch of each element should be no more than 120 mm - this is the width of the sheathing slab;
2. Install intermediate racks at a distance of 60 cm, that is, in the middle of the main ones, their thickness should not be less than 50 mm;
3. The upper frame is constructed from timber or boards, similar to the lower one;
4. Sheathe the frame of the walls from the outside - pitch of self-tapping screws along the seams: 12-15 cm;
5. Lay insulation, foam all cracks and seams;
6. Sheathe the frame from the inside.

The developer himself decides which method to choose. But this directly depends on how many people work at the construction site. If it is possible to invite several people to help you, at least occasionally, then assembly on the floor is much more reliable and easier.

Installation and section of racks

Corner rack elements - timber 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. It is worth noting that everything depends on the load, for example, for a one-story building 10 cm is enough, for a two-story building – 15 cm and above.

There are several ways to attach racks:

• on wooden dowels;
• cutting;
• on steel corners.

The method of installation on dowels is old and complicated:

1. You must first prepare dowels from dry wood of the required diameter.
2. Then drill holes diagonally through the bottom trim beam and the stand.
3. Hammer the dowel into the prepared hole and saw off the protruding ends.

It is worth mentioning right away that this method is reliable only if the material is well dried. In the case of raw wood, it dries out, the wooden tenon will also dry out, and the rigidity of the fastening will be lost.

Cutting is made in the lower frame, and you can only choose 50% of the depth of the beam.

The easiest way - steel corners, which are installed on both sides of the racks and screwed with screws, 3-5 pieces on each side of the corner, depending on the load.

Also, when building using Canadian technology, the beams for doors and windows must be double, since the load on these structures is very large and reinforcement is necessary.

Bevels or braces

These elements are necessary if the frame of the house walls is being assembled on site. The slopes can be temporary - on the inside of the walls, if it is intended to cover the frame with any slab material. These elements are needed in order to set the racks in a strictly vertical position and fix them until the sheathing is completed. After this, the cuttings are removed.

When using stacked cladding, for example, lining, you need to install permanent braces. They are installed on each pair of racks, 4 pieces - 2 on top and 2 on bottom. You should not neglect this rule, since during the sheathing process the racks may “float” and the geometry will be disrupted.

Advice! To reduce construction costs, you can use the technology of prefabricated racks, which are assembled from two boards. To do this, they need to be knocked down with nails in a checkerboard pattern in 20 cm increments. Of course, construction will take more time, since each rack will have to be assembled separately, but the load-bearing capacity of these elements is several times higher.

Corners of a frame house

The arrangement of corners raises many questions. If you install the rack beam directly on the corner, then the installation can be done without problems, but in this case it will be cold. For areas with mild climates this is not a problem. But in central Russia, winters are cold, and corner elements need additional insulation.

There are two options to solve the problem:

1. Install the racks at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner, then there will be a gap between the frame sheathing and the timber, which is insulated with an insulator.
2. Install 2 racks in the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.

In addition, the structure can be insulated again when installing the facing material, then the house will not only be warm, but will also acquire an aesthetic appearance.

Overlap

The beams are secured to the top frame in three ways:

1. On steel support brackets;
2. On steel corners;
3. With insert.

The installation step of the beam structure and the size of the elements directly depend on what is planned to be done on top. If you plan to equip an attic floor, then in order to prevent the floor from sagging, the maximum cross-section of the beams is taken, and the step between them is reduced to 40 cm. If there is just an attic and roof on top, then the step can be increased to 60 cm, and the beams are arranged with a section 100x100.

If you plan to build a second floor, then take 150x150 beams and install a subfloor on them - this will make it easier to work with the walls of the second floor. The assembly of the structure itself is carried out similarly to that used during the construction of the first floor, but with the difference that the wall frame structure will have to be dragged to the second floor.

Rafter system and roofing material

Often, when building a house using frame technology, two types of rafter systems are used:

1. Gable;
2. Attic.

The difference in their arrangement is small; it is enough to correctly calculate the material. But in the case of frame buildings, there is a limit on the weight of the roofing material - it must be light, otherwise the wooden beams may not withstand a heavy load.

Insulation

To insulate a frame structure, you can use any of the known insulators that meet the characteristics and requirements for thermal insulation:

• Mineral wool - meets all the requirements, but it is worth remembering that this material is not moisture resistant and, when wet, can lose its insulating properties by 30-50%. To prevent such consequences, you need to install high-quality vapor barrier.
• Polystyrene foam is the most inexpensive and popular insulation material that does not absorb moisture, does not sag, and retains heat well.
• Basalt wool is a natural insulator that can be purchased both in rolls and in mats.
• Expanded polystyrene is almost the same foam, but its fraction is much finer. The material meets all sanitary standards, does not absorb moisture, and retains heat well. The only drawback is that direct sunlight destroys the material.

Important! When choosing the size of the insulating material, it is worth remembering that the slabs should be 2-4 cm larger than the gaps between the posts, so that when installing the insulator there are no unwanted cold bridges.

The choice of insulation material depends on financial capabilities and the region of construction, but it is better not to skimp on insulation, since this determines how much money you will spend on heating the room.

Finally

Using the tips and step-by-step instructions described above, anyone can assemble a frame structure on their own, without the help of professional builders. Houses using Canadian technology are assembled in a short time and are inexpensive, which is what has made them so popular among private developers.

How to make a frame building with your own hands, the advantages of a frame structure, materials, choice of site, project features, stages of work.

You don’t always have extra finances to build a house, so do-it-yourself frame construction is the dream of many who want their own home. However, many difficulties and unknowns make this dream difficult to realize.

This article explains in detail what needs to be done - what a frame structure is, how to create a foundation for a structure. How to mark future construction and excavation work. How the process of constructing the foundation and frame takes place, what are the upper and lower frames. The process of laying floors and basement beams. How the attic and roofing beams are created. Competent insulation and finishing work.

Features of the popular pile-screw foundation and how to install it yourself. What is special about the subfloor and how does the process of ceiling beams and frame take place?

What are the advantages of frame houses, what materials and technologies are used. How the roof is covered. Features of creating sheathing and ceiling systems. How to choose the right location on the site, draw up a project and the nuances of engineering systems.

What is frame construction?

The construction of wooden frame houses has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such a rapid growth in the number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very fast process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.

The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less cost and physical effort. In addition, if the façade of a house is decorated with one of the modern materials that imitate brick, wood or stone, then its walls will be impossible to distinguish from solid ones.

Interestingly, building a frame house with your own hands is quite possible, even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of an entire team. If you decide to carry out the construction yourself and complete it during the warm and dry summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. If the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction at least to the rafter structure and to the roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.

Considered in general, the frame structure of a house consists of a lower and upper frame, which fastens the vertically installed posts that form the frame of the external and internal walls. The base for the floors and attic floor consists of load-bearing beams made of timber. The rafter system is also constructed from beams, and the roofing covering is laid on it. It is desirable that it does not have too much mass.

Insulation is installed and laid between the frame elements. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame posts must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.

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Filimonov Evgeniy

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After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - this can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (CSP).

Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is lightweight and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw base is suitable for it, and if you plan to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the base part must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that moisture from the soil, rainwater or snowdrifts affects the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.

Foundation for a frame structure

Any construction begins with a foundation, and, as mentioned above, you can choose any type of foundation (except, perhaps, a monolithic “floating” slab - there is no need for it).

Marking of future construction and earthworks

Before you start digging trenches for the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of the future walls, and the overall volume of work, will depend on it, since you will not have to make unnecessary efforts to remake the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.

• Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists of installing wooden stakes with stretched cords, which visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.
• Trenches can be dug manually or, if this process needs to be carried out quickly, special construction equipment can be used, with the help of which this entire operation will be completed in one day.
• For digging holes under columnar foundation In addition to shovels, they use a regular hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes of the required diameter to the required depth much faster.

These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then it is necessary, firstly, to have additional space on the site and free passage to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will be many times more expensive.

• At the stage of digging a pit, sewerage is carried out. To lay pipes, trenches are dug to a depth below the soil freezing level in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.

If a columnar foundation is being installed, then the section of pipe running from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.

Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.

Currently, in Russia they have gained increasing fame and popularity. Moreover, the choice of technology during construction does not matter much. Both technology and technology are used with equal regularity. When building a low-rise frame house, it is possible to quite effectively use the most modern building materials and the latest achievements in industries.

The need for the construction of such houses has recently grown very much, so many people decide to start building a frame house on their own. Because the technology for its construction is not too complicated.

When planning to build a good home for your family, firstly, determine its purpose. You need to clearly know what time of year the family will live there, all year round or only in the spring-summer season. The method of insulating it will depend on this choice. Initially, a frame house is an elementary simple structure consisting of vertical posts and a certain number of horizontal strappings, which must be carefully and efficiently constructed. During the construction process, all detected voids are filled with special materials with low thermal conductivity. And then, when facing internal and external walls, different building materials are used.

Based on this, we conclude that the appropriate type of insulation will directly depend on the operating time of the house and the weather conditions under which the frame house will be built. Or are used as insulation - these are universal materials.

Work on the foundation

As a rule, a frame house is built no higher than 2 floors. Moreover, it is worth noting that the second floor is of the attic type. Therefore, there is no point in building deep foundations for such houses. In the best way for the construction will be prefabricated from reinforced concrete blocks.

When making the final calculation of the number and width of wall sections, you must take into account all possible mechanical loads on the floor of the building. Beams are usually installed in increments of 30 cm to 60 cm. The width of the boards is selected in accordance with finishing material. When covering, a distance (20-30 cm) is required due to the plasticity of this material and its inability to withstand minor loads. Moreover, if you cover it with chipboard sheets, the distance can be increased to 35-60 cm.

When installing windows () when building a frame house with your own hands, it is necessary to comply with precise building codes. Firstly, the window area should occupy 18% of the total wall area. Secondly, in a house where you plan to live only in the spring and summer, frames with single glazing will be sufficient. When living all year round, use frames with double, or better yet, triple glazing.

The final stage of construction is the construction and installation of the frame. In addition to external beauty, the roof plays the role of distributing significant external loads. Here are the main elements of a load-bearing roof - rafters and rafter legs, they are divided into hanging and inclined, diagonal connections, ridge girder. At With When building a frame house with your own hands, sooner or later you will think about roofing material. Currently, the construction markets offer a wide range of necessary materials.

Let's summarize: building a frame house with your own hands is not an easy task! The main rule is that when assembling the structure, strictly follow building regulations and established rules. And then your frame house will delight you and your descendants.

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