How to install a metal door in a panel house. Install a metal entrance door with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Your walls are made of plaster - no problem

Metal doors are rightfully considered the most reliable protection of a home from the outside world. Due to the design features, many buyers prefer them. It is also necessary to note the appearance, which can look the way the buyer himself wants, due to the huge number of design variations.

Iron doors are perfect for private buildings, apartments, offices and utility rooms. Their cost varies considerably, and installation is often equal to half the cost of the metal protector itself.

We will reveal a secret to thrifty owners: if you do the installation yourself, then with the money you save you can purchase an example of increased safety and comfort, which includes noise and heat insulation and absence of foreign odors(in the event of a fire on the site, a good door will prevent carbon monoxide from entering the apartment).

Tools and materials

For self-installation, you need tools for the job. A rough list includes:

• Rotary hammer or electric impact drill;
• Building level;
• Crowbar;
• Convector with electrodes;
• Hammer;
• Grinding machine with cutting disc;
• Screwdriver (Phillips and slotted) and wrench;
• 5m tape measure;
• Simple pencil, marker.

Materials and components include:

• Anchor bolts (anchors), the size of which is not less than 100x150mm.
• Set of hexagons;
• Metal fittings, with a cross-section of 10-12 mm (if the door will be fixed by welding);
• Foam for installation - for filling the voids between the door frame and the ends of the opening;
• Spacer bars, they are a set of wooden wedges of different cross sections and are needed for temporary fixation in the door frame opening; with their help, they also check the correct verticality and horizontality of the structure;

• The solution will be needed if the doorway was enlarged carelessly and the gap between the opening and the frame is more than 25 mm;
• Solid oil for the closure mechanisms of the hinges and the door itself;
• Large bags for waste;
• Broom and dustpan;
• Thick cardboard to protect the floor covering from mechanical impact;
• Covering material for furniture if it is located next to the door. It will protect you from construction dust and dirt.

How to take correct measurements yourself?

For a high-quality installation, making accurate calculations of parameters is one of the most important operations. If for some reason inaccuracy creeps into the calculations, you need to measure again and install the door again.

There are standard sizes of metal entrance doors (frames and leaves) for residential premises. Dimensions of built-in blocks:

• 860*2050 mm - it requires an opening width of 880 to 960 mm, height of 2070 to 2100 mm;
• 960*2050 mm – width should be from 980 to 1060 mm, height from 2070 to 2100 mm;
• 880*2050 mm – from 900 to 980 mm wide and from 2070 to 2100 mm high;
• 980*2050 mm – from 1000 to 1080 mm in width and from 2070 to 2100 mm in height.

For non-residential entrance groups, the parameters are non-standard and individual. The fact is that there are a huge number of GOSTs; there are no exact criteria and definitions to somehow systematize the concept of non-residential entrance openings.

Measurements are made in several stages:

• It is necessary to calculate the width of the opening from wall to wall and the height from the top edge to the bottom. If there are platbands from the old door, they must be removed and then deal with the calculations;
• If the opening differs from the standard parameters, then it needs to be narrowed or widened. The choice is made based on considerations of what is faster and more economical;
• Unforeseen circumstances, in the form of poorly reinforced or crumbling walls, must be eliminated, then measurements must be taken.

Dismantling of external iron models

The disassembly of the old door must be taken with full responsibility, since incorrect actions can lead to deformation of the opening and even injury. Dismantling metal samples, including steel, yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. However, you need to clearly follow the sequence of actions and be careful.

The action plan is:

• Preparing the necessary tools (nail puller, crowbar, hammer, stationery knife, screwdriver, pliers).
• Remove the panel (door). If the structure is secured with universal hinges, then you will need to unscrew the screws when there are card or detachable hinges - in this case, you can remove the canvas quite quickly.
• It is necessary to remove the platbands.
• We remove the door frame. You need to find a place in the wall where the box is attached (most often it is located next to the hinge or lock connection). After the fasteners are unscrewed, dismantling is completed.

Important points:

• If you can’t remove the fasteners, you can use a grinder and carefully cut them off. It is necessary to note the safety rules - use gloves and special glasses. It is also recommended to use a new circle so that it ensures correct cutting, and the device should not rest against the door frame;
• if the cutting wheel does not fit between the frame and the opening, it is necessary to increase the gap by hollowing out the plaster using a pick, which is inserted into the hammer drill chuck;
• cutting of the pins is carried out strictly according to the rule (threshold of the box - sidewalls - top part), if the order is disturbed, the box will fall with all the ensuing consequences;
• if there is old polyurethane foam, it can be removed with a sharp utility knife, and the plaster can be removed with a hammer.

Preparing the opening

Preparing the opening is an important part of replacing a door. It does not always turn out that it fully corresponds to the parameters of the built-in input group. Let's consider several options for changing the dimensions of the doorway.

Magnification (expansion)

This can be done in two ways:

• The most common expansion method is felling, as it does not require significant cash costs. After cutting, the finished opening can already be leveled and plastered. You can cut on one side or on both sides.
• Cutting. The method is a little expensive, its advantage lies in the use of load-bearing walls of any strength level. To carry out this procedure, you need specialized equipment with a diamond disc.

Narrowing of the opening

Reducing the size must be done with the expectation of maintaining the strength of the structure, as well as its reliability. In any case, it is necessary to tie it to the main wall with steel reinforcement. There are 2 ways to reduce parameters:

• brickwork. Production is carried out both in one brick and in several, to the desired size. 3 days after working with brick, plastering is carried out. And the door leaf can be installed no earlier than after 10-14 days;
• concreting.

It is worth noting another alternative option for narrowing the doorway - this is the installation of a double door, where the small leaf does not need to be opened every time. Its advantage is that it can be opened by widening the opening when it is necessary to bring in a large item.

Mounting options

At the moment, three methods are known for fixing the entrance metal door to the frame:

• Directly in the wall, recessed method. The thickness of the walls must be at least 200 mm, otherwise any intruder will be able to break down such a door. Anchor bolts are used as fastening; holes must be made for them in advance, taking into account the technological gaps. When the work is finished, the ears of the bolts are masked with special plugs in the color of the box itself.
• On mounting plates. Installation is carried out on plates that protrude from the door block; their number is usually 3 or 4. They have special holes for mortgages. After correctly placing the door frame around the perimeter, there should be a gap of approximately 10–20 mm. Then steel guides are installed in the holes, the remaining ends are welded or riveted. As a replacement for guides, you can use anchor bolts or reinforcement.
• Combined, which involves combining the first and second methods.

DIY installation rules

Inserting both metal doors into an apartment yourself is a difficult task, but doable. The whole process is divided into several stages:

• Installation of the door frame. It is fixed with wooden blocks; their thickness should slightly exceed the technological gaps. Wedges need to be driven between the box and the opening, then check with a level that the position is correct.

The upper corner of the hinge side is the beginning of the installation of the box. Next, you need to drill holes through the plates, the diameter of the holes will be 15 mm, the depth will be 100 mm. We hammer pins or bolts into them, which are welded to the plates. Then we check the level of the box.

• Test hanging of the door leaf. Once the fixation of the frame is completed, it is necessary to hang the door itself to check its movement. The door movement should not require any effort. Then we remove the canvas

• Installation of fasteners. We fix the fasteners on the false side, blow out the indentations with polyurethane foam, and remove the excess. Afterwards we install the accessories and cashing.

• Hanging the canvas. The final point is to hang the door leaf, lubricate the hinges, and install the linings.

Let's consider several technologies for installing metal doors. The first technology is installation in a wooden box. Fastening metal to wood in modern conditions is a very real task. Let's note a few nuances:

1. wooden buildings (log houses made of solid logs, as well as private wooden buildings, made of mini-timber or log houses) have their own shrinkage (8-12 cm). If the building is more than 5 years old, you don’t have to worry about changing the design parameters;
2. for installation in wood, a semi-rigid fastening of the canvas in a box is used, while only external hinges are used.

If foam blocks, gas silicate blocks in aerated concrete block walls, or polystyrene concrete slabs are used for construction, then due to the low strength of the compositions, a feature of installing doors in such houses is additional reinforcement. This is possible in several ways:

• embedded part;
• metal structure;
• wood construction.

In frame and panel houses, for structural strength, doorways can be strengthened with additional spacers and posts; for greater reliability and rigidity, they are made of timber.

How to install a turn signal?

A turn signal or a latch handle is also called a night watchman, as this is an additional protection for the door from the entry of unwanted “guests”. This mechanism sets the latch in motion; it is installed on the inside of the door, as a result, opening it from the outside is absolutely impossible. This device is installed in several stages:

• first, drill in the required place on the end of the door, the so-called “seat” for the body of the valve itself;
• form a special pocket on the counter part of the door block;
• install the locking bolt;
• Drill a hole of suitable diameter to the rod on the inside of the door and install the turn signal.

The nuances of installing a vestibule door on the landing

The tambour door serves as additional protection against intruders entering the apartment. Installing such a door allows you to carve out space for personal belongings, for example, a baby stroller or a bicycle, without worrying about their safety and freeing up space in the apartment.

“Corridor doors” according to their design characteristics are divided into several types:

• a door with one leaf in the center and blank sides. Such blocks are installed in rooms with wide and low openings;
• a metal door with two opening doors, one of them is the main one, the other opens if necessary and is locked mainly with a latch;
• combined models. Due to the transoms, which can be movable, the passage can be expanded. In the case of blind transoms, parts of the door block will be motionless. These samples are installed in rooms with high ceilings and wide openings.

The process of installing a vestibule door is quite similar to installing an entrance door. Points characteristic of installing a common door on a landing:

• if the door already existed, then it is advisable to adjust the key holes and attachment points in the new door;
• strict adherence to the correct installation of vertical and horizontal lines;
• After completing the installation work, you must wait and do not use the door immediately. This is necessary so that the polyurethane foam that was used can dry.

How to check if the installation is correct?

In order for a metal door to serve for a long time, it must be installed correctly. There are several ways to check for deviations from the norm:

• Open and close the door. This checks the accuracy of the level and the presence of distortions. It should not open spontaneously. Only by applying external forces can you influence the canvas.
• The interval between the frame and the door. It should be kept to a minimum, as the seal will compensate for it. The seal also performs another very important function - it insulates sounds and heat.
• The presence of an interval between the doorway and the frame. It doesn't have to be big, but its presence is mandatory. It largely depends on the correct choice of the size of the door itself.
• Weight of the front door. It depends on the material and technical characteristics of the block (profile, corner, combined). The heaviest is the combined metal structure, due to the fact that a bent profile was used in its manufacture, which means it is the most stable and reliable. Once the installation of the door is completed, try to influence it, the force you apply should not be too great. But even if you are not entirely comfortable due to the heaviness, this issue can be solved with the help of a suitable platband.

• Door handle and lock. The handle should not dangle or be flimsy, nor should it be hard to press. Balance is important here. Any fittings, including those for doors, must perform well in use from the first day of installation and for a very long time. After assembly in the door, the lock should also show itself. Modern models are developed from the very beginning without any defects, so a new lock should not be given a chance to be developed. It should be easy to use without effort.
• Door hinges. For full operation they must be lubricated during installation. Otherwise, the opening mechanism will be damaged.
• External view of the door. There should be no scratches, much less dents, on the canvas. If these appear during transportation and installation (that is, with minimal impact on the surface), then there is no need to talk about its protective anti-vandal functions; immediately discard a sample of this quality. The same can be applied to decorative elements on the door. If the door block with additional elements is intact, you can be sure that you have a high-quality model.

Doors can be different, interior or entrance, wooden or metal, simple and equipped with various additional automatic systems. And in each case, doors of appropriate complexity must be installed.

Door manufacturers usually install doors themselves, providing a guarantee for the work performed, and, of course, they charge a certain fee for this.

Naturally, installing doors requires the involvement of a team of professionals, but at the same time, the work can be done independently. Knowing the rules for installing interior doors and the nuances of installing a metal door, the entire procedure can be completed by two people in 3-4 hours.

For those who choose the latter option, let's look at how to install a metal entrance door with your own hands.

Nuance. As a rule, the manufacturer does not provide a warranty for a door that is installed by third parties, nor does it adjust it.

Installation of metal entrance doors - instructions

1. Preparatory stage

Door Installation Tool

The set of tools required for the job is shown in the photo.

As we can see, there is no need for a particularly highly specialized professional tool.

Preparing doors for installation

Preparing the purchased door will also not take much time. It needs to be unpacked and checked for completeness. Check how the lock works and make sure that the hinges can be adjusted. Today, only home-made hinged welded hinges are unregulated.

Advice. If the door does not have a protective film, it is recommended to protect it with plastic film and apply masking tape to the door frame.

Preparing the site for installing doors

Preparation of the installation site involves removing furniture from the work site, removing or protecting the floor covering, removing baseboards, and protecting design elements from dust. In addition, you should immediately decide in which direction the door should open and take into account the required gap size. So that in the future the floor covering does not interfere with the operation of the door.

2. Dismantling the old entrance door

For a new building, this stage is not relevant, but when replacing iron entrance doors in an apartment or private house, it should be taken seriously.

Dismantling a metal door takes no more than an hour and is divided into two components:

• dismantling the door leaf. If the door is installed on non-removable hinges, then it can be removed by opening it and lifting it up. The door will easily slide off its hinges. Given the weight of the metal door, a crowbar may be needed. If the hinges are collapsible, then they need to be disassembled using a screwdriver;

• dismantling the door frame (metal or wood). It happens that the door frame for a metal door is made of wood, then you need to unscrew all the anchors and remove individual parts from the doorway. You may have to cut the wood into pieces and remove them using a crowbar. Most often, the front door is installed in a metal frame. Then you need to cut off the fastening rods and remove the box. And then eliminate all surface irregularities, remove unnecessary plaster and remove dust.

3. Preparing the doorway for the front door

This stage also differs from the installation of interior doors. And it has several features:

• The metal entrance door cannot be cut. Typically, door leaves are sold in standard sizes in increments of 100 mm. Naturally, it cannot be trimmed without compromising its integrity and appearance. Therefore, to install a door you need to change the parameters of the opening. The standard width of the doorway of the entrance door (metal) is 86-96 cm (according to fire safety standards). It is convenient to bring furniture, household appliances, etc. into the house through such an opening. As a rule, most manufactured entrance doors have this width, so you can simply select the door.

To reduce the opening, you can install a metal frame made of a channel or square. The diagram for installing a metal entrance door in a wide opening is shown in the figure.

The disadvantage of this method is the appearance of cold bridges. They can be eliminated by arranging and insulating the slopes.

To widen the opening you need to cut down part of the wall. To do this, use a grinder. In a house cast from concrete, it is much more difficult to perform such work. Therefore, it is better to calculate the required width before purchasing the door leaf.

Advice. Do not use impact methods to widen the opening, as this may lead to cracking of the building's supporting structure.

• The entrance metal door is heavier. The optimal metal thickness for an entrance door is considered to be 2-3 mm. A thinner sheet can be cut using improvised means. This means that it cannot be installed in any opening. For example, the wall of a brick house or a house built from hollow blocks is not strong enough to support the weight of a metal door. In this case, a monolithic concrete portal is cast for the entrance door, which is connected to the wall with reinforcement. And the door frame is already installed in it.

• The thickness of the door frame exceeds the thickness of the wall. According to GOST 31173-2003 “Steel door blocks”, the frame cannot be installed in a wall whose thickness is less than 150 mm. In this case, you need to think about thickening the wall.

• The load on the floor increases. To do this, the strength of the floor covering in the doorway is checked. If wooden beams or bricks were previously used during installation, it is better to remove them, and clean the area and fill it with concrete. For a lighter door, you can lay new brick or antiseptic-treated timber made of durable wood.

At the same stage, communications are arranged. For example, lighting, doorbell, etc.

4. Installation of the door block in the opening

There are several ways to install a door block with your own hands.

Door block installation technology - diagrams are shown in the figure.

The choice of a specific option depends on the features and weight of the front door. For understanding, we will briefly describe each method.

Method 1 - installing the door block using mounting plates (eyelets)

Schemes 1-3 in the figure. The most popular installation method, because... many manufacturers and shrubs make door frames with protruding lugs. There are usually three of them on each side post. The box is installed so that the plates are adjacent to the outer part of the wall. And the technological gap between the door frame and the wall was 10-20 mm.

A hole is drilled in the wall. Its depth depends on the thickness of the wall and should be 2/3, but not less than 100 mm. Next, anchor or plumbing bolts are inserted through the hole in the eye and tightened with wrenches. Quite often, fittings are inserted into the eyes. A rod thickness of 12-15 mm is sufficient.

Advice. For hollow walls, anchor bolts are not used, and the length of the pin must be increased to 500 mm.

For reliable fastening, the pin is spread out (to form a cap) or welded to the eye.

Advice. To make it easier to insert the reinforcing pin, you can sharpen one end of it.

The installation diagram through the eyes is shown in the photo.

Advice. When installing the door, it is better to orient the eyes towards the inside of the room. This will protect you from cutting the door.

Method 2 - installing the door block through the door frame (frame)

Scheme 4 in the figure above or drawing in the figure below.

It is used if the door is installed in an opening with internal and external slopes. In this case, the wall thickness must be at least 150 mm to avoid internal damage.

To install the door block using this method, holes 100-150 mm deep are drilled through the mounting holes in the metal of the door frame. An anchor bolt is inserted into them and tightened with a wrench, or the fittings are wound in. If holes are not provided in the door, they are drilled with a drill. The size of the technological gap between the wall and the door frame is 5-10 mm.

Advice. When installing the door in this way, take care to protect the door covering. Powder coating can be painted over, but polymer coating cannot be restored.

The installation diagram of the door block through the frame (door frame) is shown in the photo.

Method 3 - installing a door block by concreting the door frame

The newest of the existing ones, but it has already found its supporters. Provides for concreting the door frame, as shown in the diagram.

The essence of the method is that a hollow door frame is used, into which a concrete solution is placed.

The installed box is leveled using a level, anchored (fixed) in the wall using anchors and left until the solution has completely hardened.

Installation of a metal entrance door - rules

Choosing one method or another does not mean that the metal entrance door will be installed correctly. When performing installation, you must adhere to the following sequence of work with the obligatory use of a building level or plumb line.

• measure the width of the door in three places (top, bottom, middle);

• install the door frame strictly level. This will avoid any distortions in the future. Initially fix the door against the wall using wedges. This will help you to easily and timely correct its position. In this case, it is recommended to place the wedges as close to the corners as possible so as not to damage the covering of the box;

Advice. Vertical alignment must be checked from the outside and inside of the box.

• drill holes in the wall. The dimensions of the holes must correspond to the dimensions of the fasteners;

• insert pins or bolts into the holes and securely fasten them;

• ensure that the threshold is tightly connected to the floor. After all, it will bear the greatest load;

• install door hinges, lubricate them, remove unnecessary (extra) grease.

5. Hanging the entrance metal door

The door must be installed with the required clearances. The size of the door gaps in the door frame is constant along the entire perimeter. This will ensure the normal functioning of all locking mechanisms and hinges.

After the door is installed, the ease of opening is checked and the hinges are adjusted. We'll tell you how to do it right.

How to adjust the hinges on the front door

To adjust the door hinges, you need to loosen all the fasteners on the middle hinge, and leave one on the bottom and top hinge tightened.

If the gap exceeds the norm at the top, then you need to loosen the fasteners on the bottom hinge. Once the door leaf is installed correctly, you need to fasten the loose screw on the top hinge, and then the remaining screws on the bottom hinge. After this, the screws are fastened to the top hinge and lastly to the middle one.

Advice. You can check the quality of installation of the front door as follows. Place a sheet of paper on the threshold or counter and close the door. Pull the sheet. It should pull out with some effort.

6. Filling technological gaps with foam

Before starting to fill the gaps between the door frame and the wall with foam, many professionals advise removing the door leaf to prevent foam from getting on it. However, craftsmen advise covering it with film and blowing out the openings with the door closed. This will allow you not to overdo it with foam, which can inflate even a metal box.

Advice. If there are significant gaps between the wall and the box, it is better to seal them with foam plastic, and only then foam them.

Within 24 hours the foam will harden completely and it will be possible to cut it off. If wooden wedges protrude, it is recommended to cut them off and never hammer them in. This can lead to deformation of the door frame, which can only be eliminated by performing the work again.

Advice. The threshold should not be blown with foam. It will collapse under constant loads. It is better to seal the base and cracks with concrete.

Installation of metal entrance doors - video instructions

7. Decorative design of the entrance metal door and opening

Includes design (finishing) of slopes, fastening of platbands, installation of a door closer, etc.

8. Caring for the metal entrance door

A properly installed metal door does not require maintenance or lubrication. Therefore, all maintenance comes down to careful operation and care of the door leaf from the inside:

• When powder painting, you can use aggressive detergents;

• when finishing with vinyl leather and MDF panels, it is better to use a damp cloth without chemicals;

• when decorating with laminate, you can use any type of care, the main thing is to wipe the door dry;

• when using veneer in door decoration, it is better to use special wood polishes for cleaning;

• To clean the handle and locks, use a soft cloth, and the moving part of the lock is periodically lubricated with technical petroleum jelly.

Conclusion

This instruction contains all the details for installing a metal entrance door. By adhering to the recommendations outlined, everyone will be able to perform the correct installation of an iron door with their own hands.

Metal doors are a symbol of reliability and safety of property. But no matter how good the door is, if the installation is done incorrectly, intruders can easily overcome this obstacle. And hacking isn't the worst thing. It often happens that residents themselves cannot get inside the apartment due to the fact that the door does not open: the lock fails, the door leaf does not open, etc. Upon closer examination, it is discovered that the main reason is hidden in errors during installation of the door , violation of the rules for installing the door block.

Rules for installing a metal entrance door to an apartment

Gone are the days when, to install a metal door, it was enough to invite a familiar welder and build a free-style iron structure at the entrance to the apartment. Since the fashion for iron doors has taken root among the urban population, standards and rules have been developed and approved, the violation of which is punishable by law.

The metal door installed in the apartment must comply with regulatory documents

On the territory of the Russian Federation there are several regulatory documents regulating the procedure for the manufacture and installation of metal doors in residential buildings.

• GOST 31173–2003 regulates the technical conditions for the installation and operation of steel door blocks;
• FPB (fire safety rules) describe the procedure for installing a metal door in residential and commercial buildings;
• SNiP 01.21.97 and SP 1.13130.2009 determine the dimensions of the door block, the direction of opening of the door leaf, the height of the threshold and other technical indicators.

It is also necessary to keep in mind that the arrangement and relocation of a doorway in apartment buildings that does not correspond to the original design is equivalent to redevelopment, which must be agreed upon with architectural services.

Doors can have standard sizes or be made according to a special project. There are the following standard sizes of metal door blocks (height x width according to the size of the door leaf):

The size of the door frame, in accordance with GOST and the intended purpose of the product, is tied to the dimensions of the door leaf.

Installation should be carried out by a specialized organization; preference is best given to a team of assemblers from a metal door manufacturer. Only personnel who have completed a training course and are equipped with the necessary tools and materials are allowed to carry out installation work.

The main requirements, according to the documents, are the use of reliable fastening material. Thus, anchor dowels and threaded connections with a diameter of at least 10 mm are used. The distance between them should not exceed 0.7 m. Anchor plates and steel pins are used as additional fasteners. The gaps are filled with materials that have a low shrinkage coefficient and high thermal insulation properties:

• sealing compression (pre-compressed) PSUL tapes;
• mineral or basalt wool;
• silicone or acrylic sealant;
• polyurethane foam;
• polyurethane cords.

Painting and impregnation of seams with primers or other binding materials is not recommended.

The rules require that the door have a vertical orientation in all planes, regardless of the position of the adjacent walls.

If after installation it seems to you that the door is not quite level, you need to check not only the position of the door block, but also the wall. It often happens that the walls are not aligned in height, and this creates the impression of a “cluttered” door frame. The door works properly only in a strictly vertical state, so installers cannot change its position for the sake of visual perception.

In residential premises, the minimum permissible size of a steel door is 1.9 m in height and 0.8 m in width. In commercial buildings, a minimum width of 1.2 m is established, which is explained by the increased flow of people (with the likelihood of evacuation in an extreme situation).

In administrative and commercial buildings, the entrance door must have a width of at least 1.2 m in order to accommodate a large flow of people during evacuation

The installation gaps between the door frame and the leaf, established by SNiP, are 25–40 mm. The distance between the border of the doorway and the metal frame should be from 2 to 3 cm, and upon completion of assembly, they are carefully filled with cement mortar (in wooden houses they use a fitting beam - a slab, which is cut taking into account the existing dimensions of the door frame).

Industrially produced doors are required to undergo testing and certification. Information about technical and operational characteristics is reflected in the passport and identifier. For example, SNiP sets a minimum level of sound insulation, which should not be lower than 20 dB. Depending on the class of the product, the parameters of water and air permeability change. The range of volumetric air permeability at 100 Pa is from 9 to 27 h/m, the water resistance limit can range from 200 to 600 h/m.

An important point when coordinating the installation of steel doors is compliance with fire safety rules. There are mandatory conditions that must be taken into account during installation.

1. The door opens outwards towards the escape route.
2. An open door does not obstruct access to adjacent rooms.
3. The door clearance width is at least 0.8 m.
4. The door does not block the opening of adjacent doors.
5. There is at least 1 m of free space between the wall and the door.

Upon completion of installation work, a standard document is drawn up - an acceptance certificate, which confirms that the installation has been completed in full and specifies warranty obligations.

What you need to install a metal entrance door

The main instructions that you should rely on when assembling a metal door is the technical data sheet. It contains an installation diagram and specification of fastening units. There are a great variety of types and models of steel doors, each with its own design and installation features. Since the main purpose of an iron door block is protection against burglary and penetration, manufacturers are constantly improving the internal structure of the locking mechanism, supplementing it with the latest developments and technologies.

Nevertheless, there is an established procedure for installing doors. For successful installation, you need to prepare the following tools:

In addition, to install the slopes you will need a dry concrete mixture, a container for mixing the mortar (bucket or trough), a trowel and spatulas. Rubber seals are usually included in the delivery package. But you need to purchase polyurethane foam yourself. The bucket is also useful for removing debris that is generated when preparing the wall opening for installing doors.

To work with professional polyurethane foam you need a special gun

If the door is installed in a wooden frame, instead of a hammer drill you need a chain saw and a set of chisels.

How to install a metal entrance door

Self-installation of the door block is justified from a cost-saving point of view. But if gross mistakes are made, then the entire effect will be covered by the costs of repairs, which will be required very soon. Therefore, it is necessary to soberly weigh your strengths and abilities, carefully study the installation manual and only then make a responsible decision.

Preparatory stage

Before installation, it is necessary to prepare the work site, level the wall opening, remove debris and deliver the door block to the installation site. The plaster is removed from the inner surface of the doorway, the remaining foam and dust are cleaned off (it is recommended to treat the walls with a “Betonkontakt” type primer).

The primer neutralizes construction dust and strengthens the material of the surface being treated.

Most often, doors are transported assembled, in wooden or cardboard packaging.

The weight of a high-quality metal door with a metal thickness of 1.5 mm can exceed 100 kg. Therefore, unloading, lifting and installation is carried out by a team of at least two people.

There should be no furniture or foreign objects in the installation area. The door leaf must not encounter any obstacles when opening.

Frame installation

Before installing the door frame, it is necessary to separate the leaf from it. This is achieved by detaching the hinges - removing or unscrewing, depending on the type of awnings. Further actions are performed in the following order.

1. The frame is installed in the doorway and preliminary alignment is carried out. The threshold is firmly placed on the floor, and the vertical posts are located along the wall. Depending on the project, the box is aligned along one of the planes of the doorway. To save internal space, metal apartment doors are usually mounted along the outer plane of the opening (opening outward). But installation in the middle of the wall is not prohibited, when the distance from the frame to the edges is approximately the same.

   The location of the door frame is selected according to the specific site conditions

2. Using wooden or plastic wedges, the frame is fixed in the desired position. The threshold is set strictly horizontally, at the level of the finished floor, the side posts are set in two vertical axes: in the plane of the door (along the leaf) and in the direction perpendicular to it.
3. Install anchors - without fully tightening, just at random. Then the door leaf is suspended and the frame is finally aligned. In this case, you should pay attention to the width of the gaps between the canvas and the edges of the frame. If the installation is done correctly, the gaps will be the same size everywhere. A sign of a high-quality installation is the stable position of the door leaf when opening. The door does not swing open or close on its own, but moves easily under the control of a person’s hand.
   

   If there are no mounting holes in the door frame, drill them yourself

4. Having finally set the position of the door frame, the panel is removed and the frame is firmly secured. At this stage it is important not to overtighten the threaded connections. Due to inexperience, some installers tighten the nuts as hard as they can, thereby deforming the sides, which will adversely affect the operation of the door later. In order not to make a mistake, you need to measure the tightening force with changes in the verticality and straightness of the rack. Experienced craftsmen divide the operation into two circles, the first time tightening the bolts half-heartedly, and the second time with maximum force. Let us remind you once again that the diameter of the fastening must be from 10 mm, the length must be at least 15 cm. The procedure for tightening the fastening is as follows:
   • the middle anchors of the racks are tightened;
   • the upper and lower sidewall anchors are screwed in;
   • two bolts are fixed on the threshold;
   • The fasteners on the top crossbar are tightened.

The gap between the frame and the wall is filled with foam, mineral wool or other filler. Complete drying of the foam occurs after 24 hours, but installation can continue after the surface layer has set (30–40 minutes). To improve adhesion and speed up drying, the gap is moistened with water before pouring the foam.

Before applying the foam, the surfaces of the walls and frames can be moistened with water to improve adhesion

Installation of door leaf

Installation of the door leaf must be carried out by two people, as it is the heaviest element of the structure. If the hinges are hinged, the canvas, in an open position of 90° relative to the frame, is lifted above the awnings and put on top. If the hinges are internal, the door is connected in accordance with their installation diagram. For convenience, one or more boards are placed under the lower edge of the canvas as support.

After installing the door frame, a metal sheet is hung on the hinges

Installation of fittings

The last step before finishing is the installation of control fittings: door lock, handle, peephole and door closer. If the kit contains all these elements, then the instruction manual will definitely contain a detailed diagram and installation instructions.

The factory-made door kit contains all the necessary fittings

Finishing

Finishing work consists of installing platbands and installing slopes. Platbands hide all unsightly areas and decorate the appearance of the door. Slopes serve the same purpose, but have a different structure, since they are installed in the recess of the doorway. In addition, slopes significantly increase the strength of the entire structure if they are made of cement mortar. On the inside, ready-made plastic panels or sheets of plasterboard are often used as slopes. This solution makes installation easier, but in the interests of strength it is better to give preference to solid slopes consisting of hardened cement and sand. To strengthen the slopes, reinforcing meshes made of metal or synthetic fiber are used.

The remaining part of the depth of the doorway is covered with additional elements, and platbands are installed on the front side

Features of installing a metal entrance door to an apartment

Modern apartment buildings are made of bricks or prefabricated reinforced concrete blocks. There are also combined standard projects. But in any case, when installing a metal door in such houses, you have to deal with stone walls. All the information given above applies specifically to such apartments.

The only important caveat that needs to be made concerns the preparation of the doorway in panel houses. The fact is that walls consisting of cast reinforced concrete are strictly forbidden to groove, cut or split. This leads to disturbances in the distribution of static loads of the entire building as a whole and can cause unexpected consequences. For example, there have been cases when, as a result of chiselling block walls, floor slabs were displaced, and the building was transferred to the emergency category. Excessive vibration during operation of a hammer drill spreads throughout the house and sometimes leads to cracking of glass on windows and other unpleasant consequences.

For these reasons, when preparing a doorway in a panel house, it is strictly forbidden to expand the dimensions of the hole in the wall. If it is not possible to select the required door size for the existing opening, the only correct solution will be to manufacture a door block according to an individual project. However, if the opening is large and the door is planned to be smaller, you can narrow the dimensions using brick or block masonry.

Reducing the size of the doorway can be done using brickwork

Video: installing a metal entrance door in an apartment

Features of installing a metal entrance door in a wooden house

A wooden house differs from a stone house in that in the first few years after construction it shrinks significantly. The wood gradually dries out and decreases in size. This leads to a reduction in the size of the building as a whole by 3–5%. Ideally, in order to install an iron door in a log house without any problems, you need to wait several years. But in our time, such a period is an excessive luxury. Therefore, they came up with an original technology for plastic windows and metal doors.

Within several years after construction, the wooden elements of the house dry out and decrease in size, as a result of which door and window openings change their geometry

The bottom line is that in place of the top plank, free space is left, which will gradually be filled with drying wood. To compensate for vertical deformation, the metal frame is connected to the wooden partition of the log house through a special beam - a carriage.

The procedure will be as follows.

After 3–4 years, when the structure settles, the gaps are cleared of tow and filled with polyurethane foam.

In old log houses that have stood for 10 years or more, this problem is also present, although on a smaller scale. The house can become deformed under the influence of strong temperature changes or during bitter frosts. Therefore, the technology of installing metal doors on carriages is used everywhere. Plastic doors and windows are installed in the same way.

Video: installing a metal door in a wooden house

Features of installing a metal entrance door in aerated concrete

Foam and aerated concrete blocks are widely used in the construction of low-rise buildings. Light weight, low cost and excellent thermal insulation properties contribute to the popularity of this material among developers. However, everyone knows the weak point of blocks - their porous structure. A nail driven into a wall made of aerated concrete can be pulled out by hand without much effort. How to secure a metal door in such conditions?

The solution is quite simple and logical. If the connection to the wall is not reliable enough, then you need to strengthen the frame. In the case of foam concrete, it is customary to design a double frame for an iron door. Moreover, the distance between the outer perimeter of the frame and the inner is equal to the thickness of the wall made of foam blocks.

The double frame encloses the entire aerated concrete wall and strengthens its structure

Thus, the door frame is held in the opening not only by special anchors, which increase in size when screwed in, but also by a structure that spans the entire thickness of the wall.

When the screw is tightened, the lower part increases in volume and expands the anchor inside the wall

To enhance the interior space of such a frame, additional decorative elements are used. The rough parts of the frame - metal corners - are lined with wood or MDF panels, and the appearance of the doorway takes on a quite presentable shape. The air space under the extensions serves as an additional barrier to freezing and noise penetration.

Video: installing an iron door in aerated concrete

Installation of components for the entrance metal door

The fittings play an important role in the proper operation of the door. The ease of use and service life of the door depend on how the locks, handles and closers are mounted.

Installing locks on an iron door

The locking device is the main obstacle to forced entry. Therefore, special attention is paid to him. To install the lock you will need the following tools:

• screwdriver;
• drill with a set of metal drills;
• screwdriver with interchangeable heads for different slots;
• screws and self-tapping screws;
• a set of files and needle files;
• core, taps for thread cutting;
• Angle grinder (grinder) with a metal disc.

Of the variety of locks for metal doors, only three types are used.

Based on the type of locking mechanism and level of secrecy, the following lock systems are distinguished:

• disk;
• crossbars;
• level;
• electronic;
• magnetic;
• cylinder.

For self-installation, cylinder and lever locks are considered the most suitable. Magnetic and electronic locks require special equipment for debugging and adjustment.

Installing a mortise lock

Let's look at the procedure for installing a mortise lock.

1. The position and location of the lock is determined. The recommended height is 90–140 cm from the floor.
2. The core marks the boundary of the excavation. Using a grinder, the inside of the hole in the end of the door leaf is cut out. The edges are processed with a file, burrs and sharp edges of the cut are removed.
3. The lock is inserted into the hole, and the attachment points are marked with a marker. Holes are drilled in the marked places (usually from two to four). Threads are cut using taps. The thread pitch is selected depending on the available screws.
4. The location of the keyhole exit and the handle drive on both sides of the blade is determined. The lock is applied to the door leaf, and the required points are marked with a marker.

   Holes for fastening the lock are drilled with an electric drill

5. The holes are drilled with a margin of several millimeters, sharp edges are rounded with a small file to avoid cuts and abrasions on the hands.
6. The lock on the door is being installed and secured. The operation of the mechanism is checked.

   After installing the lock, its mechanism is fixed with the bolt included in the delivery kit.

7. The mating part is cut out on the frame. To do this, mark the exit point of the locking bolts and make a corresponding hole on the side post of the door frame.
8. After checking the operation, the lock is lubricated, and the counter plate is attached to the frame.

   The strike plate is designed to hold the locking elements inside the door frame

Video: how to properly embed a lock into a metal door

For those who intend to install the lock themselves, information on installing a rim lock will be useful. The procedure is slightly different from the previous one.

Video: installing a rim lock on a metal door

How to properly install a door closer on a metal door

When choosing a door closer, they use a classification based on the width of the doors and the power of the power unit (spring or hydraulic mechanism). The correct choice plays an important role in the subsequent operation of the door. There are seven types of door closers:

• 75 cm - 20 kg;
• 85 cm - 40 kg;
• 95 cm - 60 kg;
• 110 cm - 80 kg;
• 125 cm - 100 kg;
• 140 cm - 120 kg;
• 160 cm - 160 kg.

The first number indicates the width of the door leaf, the second - the weight of the door leaf. In addition, closers are divided according to the drive fixation point (inside or outside the door).

1. Hidden design. The spring is located inside the hinges.
2. Bottom fixation. It is rarely used because the operation of such devices is difficult.
3. Top fixation is the most common type. The mechanism is visible and easy to maintain and adjust.

Installing the door closer is not a difficult task, especially since installation instructions are included in the kit. All mounting materials are included, as well as templates on a scale of 1:1, with which markings are made.

Here are typical step-by-step instructions for installing a door closer (using the NOTEDO DC-100 as an example).

1. The template is attached with tape to the surface of the door and markings are made on it.

   Holes for the closer are drilled according to the template included in the delivery kit.

2. Holes are drilled with a drill of the required diameter.
3. The closer is dismantled - the lever is separated into two parts.

   The closer is attached to the door using standard self-tapping screws.

4. The power unit (“shoe”) is installed on the door leaf along the prepared holes. The other part of the lever is attached to the frame.
5. The length of the lever is adjusted according to the attached instructions. When the door is closed, the closer lever should be positioned perpendicular to the door leaf.

   When closed, the closer lever should be positioned perpendicular to the door leaf

Video: instructions for installing a door closer

How to install a handle on a metal entrance door

The method of mounting the handle depends primarily on its type and design. Today, the variety of products in this product category is simply immense. Handles are stationary and rotary. The first ones are secured with countersunk screws so that the handle cannot be twisted from the outside. To install the rotary handle, you need to make a through hole through the door leaf. The sequence of actions is as follows.

1. The installation point is measured. The handles are attached at a height of 1–1.1 m from the floor and 10–15 cm from the edge of the canvas.
2. Depending on the design of the device, holes of the required diameter for fastening are marked and drilled.
3. The rotary handle mechanism is installed, the outer and inner levers are connected.
4. Before installing decorative overlays, the operation of the handle is fully checked and moving parts are lubricated.
5. Installation ends by tightening the fixing screws on the inside of the door.

The installation sequence for the rotary handle of a metal door is described in detail in the installation instructions

As can be seen from the instructions provided, to install the handles you need simple plumbing tools and an electric drill with a set of drills. Additionally, you will need screwdrivers for screws with different slots (flat and Phillips). Each door handle model comes with a detailed description and installation diagram. It is advisable to study them carefully before starting installation.

How to seal slopes after installing a metal door

The appearance of the opening after installing the front door can hardly be called attractive. To hide traces of installation work, cladding work is carried out on the inside and outside.

Decorative slopes hide unsightly areas of the wall after installation work is completed

Where it is impossible (or insufficient) to install platbands, slopes are installed.

Slopes can be made from the following materials:

• plastic panels;
• drywall;
• layer of plaster;
• decorative stone or tiles.

According to the author, who has extensive experience in construction, no matter how comfortable and quickly slopes are constructed from various types of panels, preference should still be given to traditional finishing methods. Cement mortar plaster not only looks great and does not require maintenance, but also solves the main task assigned to the front door - it increases reliability and prevents burglary. We can talk about panels if their location is inside the apartment. If the slopes are made from the outside, they must first of all be durable and non-removable.

To make slopes from cement mortar, you need to purchase a ready-made dry sand concrete mixture. All information about the method of preparing the solution is contained on the packaging. The time and sequence for preparing the mixture are detailed on the bag.

If the apartment is located in a damp entrance, add table salt to the solution when mixing (at the rate of 1 kg of salt per 10 liters of solution). This will make the composition resistant to moisture.

The operating procedure will be as follows.

1. Beacons are installed around the perimeter of the door. You can use ready-made products or use wooden slats for this. The convenience of metal beacons is that after the plaster has hardened, they can be left inside the slope.

   Beacons and corners are attached with a quick-hardening alabaster mortar

2. Painting corners are attached to nails, staples or alabaster mortar along the outer perimeter. The fixation must be reliable, since a rule or spatula will be pulled across the corner.
3. The cement mortar is mixed until a thick consistency is achieved. The mixture must be thoroughly mixed with an electric mixer so that there are no dry lumps in it.
4. The surface of the wall is treated with a primer. It is preferable to use deep penetration compounds, this will further increase adhesion.
5. After the primer has dried, a mortar is applied to the walls using a trowel, gradually filling the space between the beacons. When there is enough solution, the excess is pulled off along the beacons with a spatula or a short rule.

   The plaster layer is covered with finely dispersed putty

6. The operation can be divided into several stages. This is allowed when the internal volume of the slopes is large. If the break lasted more than a day, before applying a new layer, the previous one is generously moistened with water. The side planes are filled first, and the top part is plastered last.
7. After the plaster has dried, a thin layer of putty is applied on top, which eliminates minor defects and levels the surface of the slopes to an ideal shape.
8. The last stage is painting or tiling. Any type of ceramic tile, natural stone or tile fits perfectly on a leveled slope.

   After plastering, the slopes can be tiled

To further increase the strength of the slopes, fiber reinforcement is added to the solution, which is long strands of durable synthetic material. It is added to the finished batch when the mixer is no longer used.

Video: DIY door slopes

How to attach extensions to a metal entrance door

A very practical way of lining the inner surface of a doorway after installing the doors is the method of decorating with the help of extensions. Decorative panels can have any color and texture, so this finish can harmoniously fit into any interior. There are various types of accessories made from natural and synthetic materials:

• metal;
• tree.

Products made from MDF are most widespread, since their price is low and the range is huge. There are accessories for sale for all occasions. But having at your disposal ordinary planed boards in the required quantity, you can make the additions yourself.

With the help of accessories you can quickly and efficiently design a doorway

Fastening of the facing material is carried out in different ways:

Whatever the fastening, the procedure for facing work is the same.

If possible (or necessary), insulation is laid under the extensions. This will create an additional barrier to the door freezing during the cold season. Mineral wool or foam rubber is used as insulation.

MDF panels are easily and quickly mounted on a pre-installed frame

Removing the entrance metal door

The need to dismantle a metal door arises when rebuilding or reconstructing old buildings. The procedure for removing a door from metal is similar to the work for dismantling any door. However, a metal door is a highly durable structure, so you need to approach its disassembly wisely.

Most often, when dismantling metal doors, difficulties arise with slopes. If they are made of high-quality concrete mortar, then during dismantling work you will have to sweat a little and swallow dust. Such slopes can only be destroyed with a powerful hammer drill with a sharp chisel at the end. During work, you must use a respirator, safety glasses and gloves. Breaking the slopes in the upper part is carried out with special care, from a stable ladder or trestle.

Video: dismantling the old front door and installing a new one in 30 minutes

No matter how tempting it is to save money when installing metal doors yourself, do not forget about the services of experienced specialists. The craftsmen who do this work every day are fluent in assembly technology and know all the pitfalls and installation features. In addition, even the most perfect door installed by yourself is not covered by warranty.

Every home owner wants his home to be reliable. To do this, it is best to install a metal door at the entrance. It is strongly recommended to study the installation instructions to avoid incidents.

Preparing for installation

Before starting work, the apartment owner needs to consider what the estimate will be for installing such doors.

Removing the old door

First, it makes sense to purchase a new door frame. If the buyer does not want to purchase a bad copy, already in the store it is worth carefully unpacking the frame and door leaf, and then re-wrapping it in plastic using tape.

You can completely remove the film from the canvas after installation and finishing are completed, so that the surface remains clean and undamaged.

It is also necessary to prematurely acquire the necessary materials for work, such as the following:

• Hammer;
• Hammer;
• Roulette;
• Angle Grinder;

• Building level;
• Wedges made of wood or plastic;
• Cement mortar;
• Anchor bolts. Instead of bolts, steel rods with a cross section of 10 mm will also work.

The boundaries of the door opening must be clearly visible in order to take measurements. The platbands must be removed from the tray, then the unnecessary solution is cleaned off, and, if possible, the threshold is dismantled.

If the purchased box is wider than the old one, you need to find out the length of the support beam located above the opening.

The length should be 5 cm greater than the width of the box, otherwise the fastening will be unreliable. At the end of the measurements, preparation of the opening begins.

When dismantling an old metal door, you need to pay attention to several nuances:

• The door leaf can be removed from the one-piece hinges using a regular screwdriver.
• In the case when the door is supported on collapsible hinges, you need to lift it with a crowbar, and then it will slide off the hinges on its own.
• The wooden empty box is easy to dismantle; all visible fasteners must be removed; When the box is firmly inside the opening, you can saw the side posts in the center and tear them off using a crowbar.
• To remove the welded box, you will need a grinder, which can be used to cut off the mounting hardware.

Preparing the doorway

After successfully removing the old door, the opening is prepared. First you need to rid it of pieces of putty, brick fragments and the like. It is necessary to remove from it all elements that risk falling off. If the opening ends up with huge voids, it won’t hurt to fill them with bricks and cement mortar.

You should not pay attention to small potholes, but the cracks should be covered with mortar.

Large protrusions, which can also interfere with the installation of the door, must be removed with a hammer, chisel or grinder.

Then a thorough inspection of the floor under the door frame takes place.

If the owner of the apartment lives in an old building, he needs to know that a wooden beam is installed in this place. If it is rotten, this element must be removed.

After this, the floor under the box must be filled with another timber, which has been treated against rotting, then it must be laid with bricks, and the gaps must be filled with mortar.

DIY installation

Of course, the safest thing to do is call a professional to install the door, but if desired, this can be done by the owner of the house himself, following the instructions.

Preparing the door

When the old frame is removed and the opening is cleaned, it is time to prepare a new iron door. Since it is very difficult to fit a lock into a door, it is recommended that you order a sample with the lock already fitted. But one way or another you will have to install the handles separately, screwing them with self-tapping screws. Before you begin installing the door, check how well the locks and latches function. Their main criterion is smoothness when working with them.

As for doors that go out onto the street, the door frame needs to be lined with insulation from the outside.

Alternatively, you can use stone wool cut into strips. It needs to be inserted into the frame, and it will be held in place by elastic forces. It is not without its drawbacks: cotton wool is hygroscopic, which can result in rust from inside the door. This is not a problem for houses in high-rise buildings: precipitation is not observed in the entrances. But another solution is to use polystyrene or foam, as they are resistant to moisture and have reasonable insulation.

The paintwork of the box risks being damaged, so it is recommended to cover its perimeter with masking tape. It must be removed upon completion of the creation of the slopes intended for the door.

If there are wires running above or below the door frame, you need to install a piece of plastic pipe or corrugated hose. Through them the wires get inside.

It is recommended to use MDF panels. Metal doors with this material can be easily cleaned of dirt, have thermal insulation properties, are resistant to deformation during temperature fluctuations and high air humidity, and MDF also has a rich color range, and the owner of the house can choose panels that will harmonize with the design of his apartment . But metal-plastic replacement of an MDF panel will require additional costs.

Sometimes the apartment owner seeks to secure the apartment with an additional vestibule door. The procedure for installing it is not much different from installing an entrance door, but it is worth considering that in the case of a vestibule, you will need to obtain permits.

Installation in the apartment

The instructions for installing a door in an apartment are as follows.

• First you need to align the stand with the hinges in two planes. For this you need a plumb line.
• Then, using a hammer drill, you need to drill recesses in the opening through the mounting holes with a depth corresponding to the anchor length or the length of the pins. After this, the level is checked again. The box stand is attached to the wall. To do this, you will need anchors that need to be screwed in. Alternatively, you can hammer it in with metal pins.

• Next, the canvas is hung on hinges, which must be pre-lubricated.
• For proper door installation, you need to align the second post of the frame. To do this, the door is closed. By moving the rack, you need to ensure that there is a gap between the rack and the door that corresponds to the entire length, approximately 2 or 3 mm. A false post is fixed in the opening, but with the condition that the door can be placed in a frame without complications. The lock should then function without any complications.

• The gap between the frame and the wall is sealed using cement mortar or foam for installation. But first you should tape the box to avoid unnecessary contamination. To do this you will need masking tape.
• When the foam or mortar has dried, the slopes are plastered, or, alternatively, lined with finishing materials. You need to decorate the outside of the door with platbands.

In a wooden house

Installation of an iron door in a timber or log house has its own specifics. In such places, windows and doors are not inserted into the wall, but using casing or frames. The pigtail is a wooden beam. It can be movably attached to any frame. Its connection occurs using a tenon or groove connection. It holds up not without the help of elastic forces. The door frame can be attached to this beam.

Sometimes it is necessary to make a casing. A wooden house has a habit of changing height. During the first five-year plan, it squanders due to shrinkage. Taking this condition into account, the seams for planting are also sealed. During the first year, not a single door or window should be installed.

The changes in the second year no longer seem so obvious, but they are there nonetheless. Therefore, there is no point in firmly securing the doors, otherwise they may jam, bend or prevent the log house from sitting properly.

Log houses experience significant shrinkage over time. Wooden openings need to be handled carefully. For example, in no case should you hammer in pins whose length is 150 mm.

To safely install an iron door, you first need to cut vertical grooves in the wall opening from the end. Sliding bars are installed in the recesses

The number of required grooves depends on the number of points for fixation.

Then a special casing is installed in the opening, after which it must be secured using self-tapping screws to the sliding bars. The gaps along the racks should not exceed 2 cm, and on the horizontal crossbars should be no less than 7 cm. Otherwise, after a year, the shrinkage of the frame will not allow the door to open.

In a brick house

A metal door can also be mounted in a brick wall. Samples of canvas that can be easily removed are easier to install. Before installation begins, the door is removed from its hinges. The door frame is then inserted into the opening area, it is placed at the bottom on a lining with a height of 20 mm for installation. This shouldn't be a problem.

It is necessary to change the lining thickness in order to ensure that the lower frame is level. To do this, set the building level horizontally, then vertically. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the racks stand exactly vertically, without deviating in any direction. In this case, you will also need a building level.

But there is a nuance: the bubble device is located on the short part of the instrument. You can also check the correct installation using a plumb line.

After the box has taken the desired position, it is wedged using pre-prepared wedges. They can be either wooden or plastic. Wedges need to be inserted onto the racks, three pieces on each and a pair at the top. They should be located close to the fastening area, but not overlap them. Then it doesn’t hurt to additionally check whether the stand is installed correctly in both planes and whether it deviates.

After this, you can mount the box in the opening. There are two types of mounting holes: either steel eyes that are welded to the box, or a through hole for mounting (they are also divided into two types: on the outside - large in diameter, and on the inside - smaller). Installation methods do not differ much, except that it is possible to install frames with holes in the frame on thinner walls in a panel house, where it is much more difficult to install doors with eyelets.

Additional advice from experienced craftsmen: you need to take into account that the number of fastening points of the box to the wall is at least 4 on the side, if you need to mount the door into a wall made of brick or concrete, and in a foam block - at least 6.

The length of anchors in brick-concrete walls should be 100 m, and in foam block walls - 150 m.

In a frame house

There are some nuances when installing a door to a home on a frame. For successful installation you will need the following tools.

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• chisel;
• self-tapping screws;
• building level;
• sledgehammer;
• screwdriver;

• corner;
• roulette;
• locking pins or anchor bolts;
• polyurethane foam;
• spacer bars made of wood.

The opening reinforcement is checked. The jambs must be located on all opening sides and fixed on frame racks. The casing can also be made of bars, but this will reduce the opening size. It is necessary to seal the opening walls with a film intended for hydro- and vapor barrier using tape or a stapler. You need to insert the entire door block into the opening (preferably with the help of a partner, since the structure is heavy). Then you need to open the door. The block should be located under the canvas.

Using a level, you need to find out the location of the frame in the opening area and align the frame horizontally to the floor and vertically to the wall or frame.

Mandatory condition: there should be no distortion during installation of the box. After this, the correct position of the door is fixed using wedges, then the door needs to be closed.

Then you need to very strictly secure the door in the casing. Holes are drilled through the holes. They will play a decisive role in fastening the metal door frame. The slots are needed for bolts or studs, they must pass through the frame and the posts. Then they need to be secured using a frame with a door. Then you need to make sure how well the door works in this position: it is contraindicated for the studs to turn out, because a frame house practically does not create shrinkage. Using studs or bolts, the threshold and lintel are fixed and tightened with these tools until they stop.

If the door closes normally and does not open on its own, you can fill the area between the metal frame and the frame, starting from the floor and ending with the ceiling, with foam.

This seam needs to be filled around 60-70%, and then you just have to wait until the material hardens. Then you need to check again whether the door works well and close the seam with platbands.

• You should not install the door overlapping the wall, as this will prevent the door from breaking in and isolating extraneous noise.
• When opening the door, it should not interfere with neighbors leaving their apartments, so it is recommended to agree with the neighbors in which direction the installed door should open.
• If a new door is installed before the renovation is completed, it is better for the apartment owner to temporarily order an unfinished MDF panel and hold off on installing expensive locks: there is a risk of damage to the clean panel during garbage removal, as well as the risk of the locks becoming clogged with concrete dust.

• If an apartment owner wants to order a high-quality door that is burglary-resistant, you need to take care in advance of strengthening the opening, otherwise it will not be possible to create the right level of protection: there will be a risk of the wall collapsing in the places where the frame is attached.
• When installing the door, it is recommended to temporarily remove electrical cables.
• It is recommended to check how airtight the vestibule is. To do this, you need to take a strip of paper and pinch it with the leaf (this procedure is done along the entire perimeter of the door); if the strip is firmly clamped by the seal, then everything is in order.

• It is better to install doors on a clean floor or parquet, otherwise after installation there will be unsightly places in the lower area of ​​the frame. If the owner of the door still decides to install the door without a finished floor, then he should leave a small gap of at least 2.5 cm, otherwise he will have to saw down the door leaf in the near future.
• It is worth additionally installing extensions, which consist of a pair of vertical posts and one horizontal bar. They are designed to “encompass” the frame more and can be purchased with the door block or separately. They are made from solid wood, MDF and fiberboard.
• The Chinese door is not recommended for installation. Despite the relatively low price, its quality is inferior to European copies.

Competent and high-quality arrangement of the entrance to the apartment means an increased level of security and minimal heat loss through the opening. It is believed that only a professional can install a metal door correctly. This is not entirely true; you just need to know some nuances. And the article is proof of this.

Preparatory activities

Removing the old door

Many question the feasibility of this. But practice shows that taking measurements of the opening parameters without removing the old structure means obtaining results with large errors. This will result in the fact that installing a metal entrance door with your own hands will be very complicated. The box will either not fit in, and you will have to “cut off” part of the wall, or the structure will begin to “walk.” In this case, it will be necessary to provide additional fastening of the block and seal the gaps between it and the end of the base.

Taking measurements

This stage has several features.

• After dismantling the old block, it is necessary to carry out a small cleaning of the end parts of the opening. This will allow you to take all its dimensions as accurately as possible.
• It is not a fact that the opening in the wall has the correct geometric shape. Therefore, it is not worth measuring its length and width along only one line (from the edge, in the center). In order for the result to be without large errors, it is advisable to determine the parameter values ​​using three “points”.
• In addition to length and width, the thickness of the wall is also important. Regulatory documents prohibit the installation of metal entrance doors if it is less than 15 cm. And if this is the case, then you will have to decide whether to opt for a different design or thicken the base. For example, using cement mortar.

• Another nuance concerns brick and wooden buildings. The openings of such buildings have a support beam. It is also measured, and the length of this structural element is used as a guide when choosing a model. If the frame is shorter by more than 40 mm, then the installation of an iron door is accompanied by additional reinforcement of the opening. Otherwise, reliable fixation of the block will not be ensured.

There is no point in buying a door by eye. This should be done only after measuring the parameters of the opening. Knowing its characteristics, you can choose a model according to size so (and there is a choice) that the installation of entrance doors will be significantly simplified.

Preparing the opening

What has been done before is just the beginning. Knowing the exact dimensions of the purchased door, it is easy to determine the scope of further work.

Main stages:

• Cleaning the opening. Before installing the front door, it is necessary to remove the remaining fragments of plaster, old insulation, wooden elements that were previously used as spacers, and so on.
• Inspection of the installation site. It is necessary to assess the condition of the walls and floor. If areas with staining concrete, bricks, or rotten wood are visible, it is necessary to eliminate the identified defects. Without preliminary preparation of the opening, installing the front door yourself loses its meaning - after a short time you will have to do repairs, since the structure in such a wall, given its massiveness, will not hold securely.
• The method of strengthening the opening is determined based on the inspection results: the voids are filled with mortar and broken bricks; significant protrusions are cut off, and so on. Another option is to install a metal frame.

• When installing an iron door in a wooden building, a frame must be placed in the opening. Its purpose is the same as for window blocks - to ensure the integrity of the structure and its performance, regardless of the degree of further shrinkage of the lumber.
• The fully prepared opening should be slightly wider than the purchased door block. The recommended technological gap is about 25 mm (but not less than 20). It is necessary not only for precise alignment of the structure, but also to ensure its high-quality insulation around the perimeter.

Door installation procedure

• Correct installation of the front door requires that the leaf should swing outward. This is stipulated, among other things, in the Fire Safety Rules.
• Level control is mandatory at all technological stages. The slightest misalignment will bring all the work to naught.

When installing yourself, two methods are practiced.

Installation of the block

This is possible if the opening is prepared with high quality, has the correct geometry, and its linear parameters (taking into account the recommended gap) are identical to the dimensions of the door.

What should be done:

• Insert the product into the opening.
• Fix the frame.

Option 1 – on anchor bolts. There should be at least 3 of them on each side. At the top and at floor level, two fasteners are sufficient. If “sockets” for them are not initially provided in the door design, it is necessary to first drill at the designated points.

Option 2 – on pins. Holes are pre-drilled at the ends of the wall. After installing the steel door, pieces of reinforcing bar are driven into them. They are also preparing; one end is sharpened, and the other, on the contrary, is slightly flattened to make it more convenient to work with a sledgehammer. Once installed, they are welded to the frame.

This must be done from the inside, otherwise the canvas will not fit tightly due to sagging. To adjust, you will have to use a grinder. After processing the frame with an abrasive disc, its appearance will be appropriate, and no decor can correct the situation if we are talking about a purchased metal door rather than a homemade one.

Separate installation

This method is implemented if the gap between the block and the ends of the wall is greater than recommended, or its condition or material characteristics make it impractical to install fixing pins.

What should be done:

• Prepare sharpened wooden wedges. Their sizes are chosen so that, after driving into the gap, they ensure a reliable “fit” of the frame.
• Installation of a metal door using this method involves its partial disassembly; the canvas is removed.
• The frame is installed in the opening, leveled and “wedged”. Wooden fastening elements on different sides are located opposite each other. This avoids significant distortion of the structure.

• Holes are made in the wall through the eyelets.
• Installation of anchor bolts is carried out on one side, with uniform tightening and constant level monitoring. After this, the rest of the fasteners are installed around the perimeter.
• The door leaf is put in place and its position, tightness to the jamb, opening angle, and ease of movement are checked. Existing defects can be eliminated using anchors (by screwing/unscrewing them) or by adjusting the canopies.

The final stage

• Gap processing. If it is small, then you can seal it with foam. This is the easiest way. For large cracks in depth, it is advisable to lay insulation and apply cement mortar on top. After hardening, it will further strengthen the structure.
• Installation of platbands. The decorative strips are attached according to the method specified in the product instructions.

• Installation of fittings. Handles, door peephole, lock - this work is also not difficult. Everything you need is included and is initially adjusted.

Sometimes you have to put the slopes in order. But this is an extreme case, and, as a rule, if the preliminary measures are carried out correctly, they are completely hidden by the door trim.

When purchasing a product, not everyone pays attention to the warranty terms. The nuance is that some manufacturers completely cancel it if the installation of metal doors was carried out independently and not by a licensed specialist. Consequently, repairs (if necessary) during this period are possible only at your own expense.

When inspecting models in a furniture showroom, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• number of locks. If there is only one, then the reliability of the steel entrance door is very doubtful;
• type of insulation. Optimally - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. Bookmarks made of cardboard, chipboards and the like will not only not provide high-quality thermal insulation, but will also not muffle street noise. It's very easy to check; tap on the canvas. A booming sound clearly indicates its poor insulation;
• metal thickness. 1.5 mm is the acceptable minimum. First of all, this applies to entrance doors;
• loop type. Awnings must have support hinges. In the absence of such, the distortion of the canvas, given its massiveness, is guaranteed very soon;
• metal door kit. High-quality products are always supplied with platbands. The reliability of the installed structure and the safety of the house largely depend on them, since these planks perform not only a decorative function. Without platbands, direct access to the hinges is easier - it’s easy to cut them off and pull out the fabric; or the entire frame of the front door, doing the same with the elements of its fastening in the wall;
• manufacturer. In the middle price range, domestic, Polish and Belarusian models are considered one of the best. Products “made in China” play more of a decorative role; in terms of durability and reliability, they do not meet the requirements for doors installed at the entrance to a building. In addition, the metal is thin and easily susceptible to impacts; as a result, dents.

Knowing the rules for installing entrance doors and following all recommendations will not only allow you to perform technological operations quickly and efficiently, but also save significant money. Installation of a metal structure costs about ¼ of its cost, and this money is not so small.

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